Scale7 JB Workbench.

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi Ian, yes, got the unlocking sorted thanks... No idea what happened there..

Speaking of JLTRT, Mr Waterman himself came and had a play with the K2 at Telford 2 years ago and was suitably impressed.. For some reason though, he seemed a little nervy of being seen on the Scale7 demo stand for more than 30 seconds...  :))

Seems a very nice chap though  :thumbs:

JB.
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
I am not suprised he seems like a nice fellow imposing Kyle Minogue, Rick Astley, Sinnita and others too scary to name on us all.

Ian
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
Trying to be diplomatic on an open forum is very difficult, I have my own thoughts on who killed our once export led music industry, and I won't voice them here. JLTRT are good models very expensive but well worth the trouble and I wish him every success in his venture. No offence was meant to you Mr CME.

I agree Cynric lets leave it here.

Ian
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Always like to cause a little controversy  ::)

Think I might make a start on the K2 etches tomorrow as there's too much of a shopping list for the L1. Anybody going to the Reading show in December?

JB. 
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Might have quite a long shopping list if I'm to buy bits for the K2 as well as the L1 now..

Made quite a bit of progress today on K2/2-2 ( see what I did there.. ;)  ) which I know to be No.1734, the only green K2 with a composite cab to be shedded at Stratford.

 

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  • K2_1734_1.jpg
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Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Bugger bugger bugger...!

I was rolling the K2 boiler today and i've managed to stretch the metal at the ends somehow, so it has flared...  :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: Anybody had this problem before?

The boiler isn't completely rolled to it's final diameter, do you think gently rolling it in a proper set of rolling bars might fix it?

One of the club members mentioned that it might be an idea to cut a few slits in the offending areas just like when creating a flare on a tender which would allow it to settle when finally rolled... not really an option I want to try, but might be the only way.. Any ideas? Be most grateful for your thoughts...!

JB.
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Im not totally clear on what you have done  :scratch: how have you stretched the metal?
either way I wouldn't try and roll a boiler without proper rollers
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
JB,

Ouch - I think I know what happened there.  Been there, did that...!  You have my sympathies.

I'm assuming that you made a good job of annealing the parts when you started and then managed to work a flare into the metal by using something like the 'dowel on a newspaper' method?  I would say that a set of rollers will sort it out, providing the stretch isn't too bad.  I'd be happy to give it a whirl for you if you haven't got access to a set.

One method of producing accurate boilers without a set of rollers is to use a former (broom handle or similar) which is a bit smaller than the finished diameter.  Start by taping the metal along one edge to the former.  If the metal is nicely annealed it's then a case of pulling the metal over the former by rolling it towards you in one smooth easy movement.  I formed a lot of boilers this way before I bought my rollers...

Apologies if there was a Grandmother egg-sucking moment there.  I hope you get it sorted easily!

Steph
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
It happened when I used a rather agricultural set of rollers... First pass was fine then on the second tighter pass, I think the metal must have grabbed and 'stretched' the metal...

I can make a new piece, but as I'm sure you imagine, I'd rather not..

Thanks for the offer Steph, but I have acces to a decent set from a member of the club. I'll give them a go, and see what happens from there I guess..

JB.
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Interesting comment there.

I never anneal boilers (and rarely anything else either), just put them straight through the rollers. I don't know whether it's just me, but I find that if I anneal anything [s:2wgvo3kw]of a reasonable size[/s:2wgvo3kw], it fails spectacularly to do what I want.

Richard
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Dikitriki said:
Interesting comment there.

I never anneal boilers (and rarely anything else either), just put them straight through the rollers. I don't know whether it's just me, but I find that if I anneal anything [s:f0eigddi]of a reasonable size[/s:f0eigddi], it fails spectacularly to do what I want.

Richard
I second that, it never works for me, I also find it makes the finished model more vulnerable to handling damage.
 
G

Graham Powell

Guest
Until fairly recently I never annealed anything either but I have taken to treating the firebox wrappers in David Andrews kits with some heat to get the metal round the formers.  That's where tinplate is better. You can bend that round with your fingers only.  If you've stretched the metal I don't think rollers will get it out. Possibly a new boiler I'm afraid.
rgds
Graham Powell
 

John D

Western Thunderer
I was rolling the K2 boiler today and i've managed to stretch the metal at the ends somehow, so it has flared...  :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: Anybody had this problem before?

  Been there,done it etc........ I found that there was absolutely nothing that could be done about it as once the metals 'stretched' that's it. You may be lucky getting it out but perhaps a new boiler may be a better option. 
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the sentiments guys...

I'll try slitting the boiler and rolling it to it's final destination, if not i'll go down the new boiler route.. Give me more scratchbuilding practice eh!!

A 2 minute job turns into a marathon!  :headbang:

JB.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi Ian, here's a shot of the boiler..

The crease that you can see isn't actually a crease, not sure what is, but you can see the flare in the edges of the boiler..  Dammit !!  :headbang:

JB.
 

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  • K2boilerflare.jpg
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iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
I see know,Is the boiler rolled from flat plate, If it is could you not slit the end of it and re roll it to iron out the flare it means filling it afterwards but it should mean you do not have to re-roll it

Ian
 
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