7mm Re: Eastsidepilot's S7 work bench

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi Col

That's a really clear and helpful explanation, filed away for future reference. It seems simple and effective and ticks all the boxes.

Good stuff:thumbs:

I shall see if I can apply the principles to my Fowler pony trucks.

Richard
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
A slight deviation from the production line.
An N10 as they were in their last days ( early 60's ), now relegated to shunter status these passenger tanks had their vacuum brakes and steam heat pipe work removed and fitted with three link couplings.
Richard asked me to repaint this model, which was already finished in NER passenger livery, and this is the result.

DSCF3285.JPG

After stripping the old paintwork with cellulose thinners I carried out a few repairs including new scratch built steps, a new roof and the bunker filled with coal.
She was given a coat of grey acrylic primer and a couple of top coats of satin black. Transfers are HMRS methsfix for the B.R. totem whilst the numbers, warning flashes and R.A. code are Fox water slide.
DSCF3287.JPG

The basic weathering was applied with an airbrush using a mix of Humbrol matt black, matt dark earth plus a shot of Metalcote gunmetal. I can't give you % of each colour as I tend to change it as I go often cutting back and then going over it again changing the mix as I see fit.
The upper surfaces received a sootier coat, again a darker mix, more of a very dark earth/black/gunmetal.

Richard had asked for a grimy, unkempt example which is how they were in those days. For reference I used a photo of this loco in the Yeadons book which shows it had primed heavily.
To get this effect and the other staining I dry brush ( small short haired flat brush ) using acrylic's and enamels.

The rod joints/crank pins got stippled with real oil which soaks into the matt paint, this gives the appearance of oil soaked grime. I also stippled some gloss varnish after the oil had dried out a bit over night.

Col.
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
There's something pleasing about NER tank engines, simple lines, chunky looking no frills work horses.

Super weathering...as usual ;)
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Fantastic Col, my North Eastern itch is scratched. As Mick says what a lovely weathering job. Is this one of Jim Mcgowens ? I have one on the list for the future as Hull had twelve of the twenty built at one time or another. One of these and an N8, but no N9 as they were never allocated there,

ATB Mick
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Brilliant Colin...!

I must admit, dry brushing is something I struggle with still...

I think I need to pull all the pigment from the bottom of the tinlets and use that rather than the oily mix, but if you have any further tips as your priming dry brushing always looks spectacularly good.....

JB.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
JB, when I used to dry brush 1:35 military I'd get a small bit of paint, wet or as dry as you like and then rub the brush on some kitchen roll until virtually dry and then apply to the model, you'd be amazed how dry it can appear on the paper and still transfer paint to the model.
 

welshwizard

Western Thunderer
A slight deviation from the production line.
An N10 as they were in their last days ( early 60's ), now relegated to shunter status these passenger tanks had their vacuum brakes and steam heat pipe work removed and fitted with three link couplings.
Richard asked me to repaint this model, which was already finished in NER passenger livery, and this is the result.

View attachment 36626

After stripping the old paintwork with cellulose thinners I carried out a few repairs including new scratch built steps, a new roof and the bunker filled with coal.
She was given a coat of grey acrylic primer and a couple of top coats of satin black. Transfers are HMRS methsfix for the B.R. totem whilst the numbers, warning flashes and R.A. code are Fox water slide.
View attachment 36627

The basic weathering was applied with an airbrush using a mix of Humbrol matt black, matt dark earth plus a shot of Metalcote gunmetal. I can't give you % of each colour as I tend to change it as I go often cutting back and then going over it again changing the mix as I see fit.
The upper surfaces received a sootier coat, again a darker mix, more of a very dark grey/black/gunmetal.

Richard had asked for a grimy, unkempt example which is how they were in those days. For reference I used a photo of this loco in the Yeadons book which shows it had primed heavily.
To get this effect and the other staining I dry brush ( small short haired flat brush ) using acrylic's and enamels.

The rod joints/crank pins got stippled with real oil which soaks into the matt paint, this gives the appearance of oil soaked grime. I also stippled some gloss varnish after the oil had dried out a bit over night.

Col.
Filth !!!!!!!!!!!
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Brilliant Colin...!

I must admit, dry brushing is something I struggle with still...

I think I need to pull all the pigment from the bottom of the tinlets and use that rather than the oily mix, but if you have any further tips as your priming dry brushing always looks spectacularly good.....

JB.

JB,
As little paint as possible on the brush and wipe it out on kitchen roll as Mick00 says. To get the effects you want you need to build it up gradually especially with acrylics, it's ok if you over do it with enamels as you can cut back.

Col.
 
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