Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thank you!
I'm enjoying building the bogies. I didn't manage to keep them as clean as Simon's or Ken's though
I'm just digesting the chassis instructions...
I'm enjoying building the bogies. I didn't manage to keep them as clean as Simon's or Ken's though
I'm just digesting the chassis instructions...
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Ken,
I weighed the rest of the kit and took off a couple of ounces for scrap etch, divided by two and weighted the bogie to the same amount. The springs sat down nicely, with the brake shoes in line. If I were doing it again, I would drill the axle box top before fitting the bearings, then there's no chance of damaging them
I weighed the rest of the kit and took off a couple of ounces for scrap etch, divided by two and weighted the bogie to the same amount. The springs sat down nicely, with the brake shoes in line. If I were doing it again, I would drill the axle box top before fitting the bearings, then there's no chance of damaging them
I just blow over a fine mist of primer (sometimes etching sometimes not) then for underframes and bogies I usually just do the first coat with Halfords satin black, in light coats, and build up from different angles, then weather with my air brush. If areas can't be seen from normal viewing angles, I either leave it or touch in with a fine brush. If possible, I remove the wheels and spray them satin black then Humbrol leather through my airbrush as in the photo up the page beside my Fruit D
Thanks for the reply and apologies for the late acknowledgement. Had a couple of weeks out of circulation online whilst on paternity leave.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Congratulations!!
Congratulations!!
Thanks. A lad too so hopefully I can corrupt......err, encourage him in the ways of all things rail related in due course.
(I failed miserably with my now 12 year old daughter!)
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I don't wish to dishearten you but after more then 30 years my boys have less than no interest what so ever
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Aah yes, but for some us after more than 40 years I'm now learning from the one I educated.
(Actually I was learning from him at the age of 7, but let's keep that as a secret among ourselves.)
Brian
(Actually I was learning from him at the age of 7, but let's keep that as a secret among ourselves.)
Brian
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I got carried away as usual, and forgot to add the 'BR1' lettering to the axle boxes. I have attacked the primed bogie boxes with celly thinners, and will solder them on, in the mean time, I have soldered them to the remaining boxes
Also, the second bogie is making progress. lots of cleaning up to do :-(
Also, the second bogie is making progress. lots of cleaning up to do :-(
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Both the bogies are finished, just a tiny bit of cleaning up on the brake end one, then I can get the primer on.
I'm just having a panic over folding the sole bars.....
View attachment 77647
I was concerned about the sole bars as well. I used an 8" hold and fold to make very slight bends starting at one end, moved it along a bit did the same and repeated until I reached the other end. Then started over again with a slightly increased bend.
As long as they are very small increments distortion is minimal and can dealt with as work progresses. However progress is slow and, at the Bristol show in January I bought a set of Mustard Tools folding bars. You could make a set yourself but the Mustard ones have the advantage of one bar (used for the inner angle) being engineered to over 90 degrees so after folding the workpiece will revert to exactly 90 degrees.
Ken
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Hi Ken,
I read your account of how you folded the sole bars for your BG.
I decided to adopt the same approach with my 8" hold & fold and it worked a treat, thank you!
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Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I decided before starting the chassis proper, I would fold the sole bars, as this little task had been playing on my mind. I needn't have worried, as by using my 8" Hold & Fold, and only folding little by little, the sole bars came out fine.
There are lots of small parts to cut out and eventually fit to the chassis, and so far, everything has gone well. I'm using the central girders to keep the cross braces in line while I solder them on. This is the culmination of a few hours play time At this point the chassis is very flimsy and unwieldy when moving to clean, but stiffens up really well with the central girders just 'clicked' in to place. While soldering, it is essential that the chassis is kept absolutely flat and true.
There are lots of small parts to cut out and eventually fit to the chassis, and so far, everything has gone well. I'm using the central girders to keep the cross braces in line while I solder them on. This is the culmination of a few hours play time
At this point the chassis is very flimsy and unwieldy when moving to clean, but stiffens up really well with the central girders just 'clicked' in to place. While soldering, it is essential that the chassis is kept absolutely flat and true.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
The chassis has a panel stamped in to inform the builder which end to fit the dynamo and associated bogie. However, when building the brake 2nd, the dynamo is fitted on the opposite end. So the sole bars and central girders need to be turned through 180 degrees.
The sole bars went on without any drama, although I took around 20 mins on each one. The instructions say to fit them on a flat surface, but I found it easier to tack solder to the buffer beams, then pick it up and work my way along. Probably not the cleverest way to do it, but it worked and the chassis is flat and true with no daylight sneaking through the joints. The centre beams literally fell in and soldered up perfectly. I did cheat and fit the additional brake parts first as it looked a bit tight to get them in after the beams were fitted.
I'm a tad disappointed with some of my soldering and a couple of joints came apart due I think to using too small a bit on the iron, but it is tight in places to get the iron in and difficult to clean up.
The nuts supplied for the bogie support plates are steel, and as always, I used my micro torch to solder them on.
There is still a fair bit to do on the chassis, but I couldn't resist positioning it on the bogies
The sole bars went on without any drama, although I took around 20 mins on each one. The instructions say to fit them on a flat surface, but I found it easier to tack solder to the buffer beams, then pick it up and work my way along. Probably not the cleverest way to do it, but it worked and the chassis is flat and true with no daylight sneaking through the joints. The centre beams literally fell in and soldered up perfectly. I did cheat and fit the additional brake parts first as it looked a bit tight to get them in after the beams were fitted.
I'm a tad disappointed with some of my soldering and a couple of joints came apart due I think to using too small a bit on the iron, but it is tight in places to get the iron in and difficult to clean up.
The nuts supplied for the bogie support plates are steel, and as always, I used my micro torch to solder them on.
There is still a fair bit to do on the chassis, but I couldn't resist positioning it on the bogies
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I used buffer springs cut in half and nuts soldered to the shanks for the exquisite buffers. The casting is superb!
I found the drag box and coupling a real fiddle to get in, and for my next one would consider fitting earlier in the build. I used a CPL steam pipe.
I have left off the steps as I know I will knock and bend them, so I'm going to complete the fitting out of the vacuum gear and battery boxes etc first, then give the buffer beam a good clean up.
I found the drag box and coupling a real fiddle to get in, and for my next one would consider fitting earlier in the build. I used a CPL steam pipe.
I have left off the steps as I know I will knock and bend them, so I'm going to complete the fitting out of the vacuum gear and battery boxes etc first, then give the buffer beam a good clean up.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I think I'm on the home straight with the chassis now, just the battery and fuse boxes to go. The bogie brake rods are ready, but I'll fit them along with the buffer beam steps just before I paint the chassis.
I couldn't get any of my springs for the brake rod tensioners to look realistic , so I drilled out a bit of threaded rod and used that instead. Once the last parts are in place, I will give the chassis a good clean and check all the joints.
I couldn't get any of my springs for the brake rod tensioners to look realistic , so I drilled out a bit of threaded rod and used that instead. Once the last parts are in place, I will give the chassis a good clean and check all the joints.
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One down
I must admit I found the door vents fiddly, and to be honest they probably need a re-visit from the soldering iron!
The 2nd one is almost done but I probably won't get the opportunity to finish the chassis until next week
View attachment 78041
Richard,
Remember - you don't have to solder everything! It never occured to me at the design stage that anyone would try to solder on any of the finer overlays and details to items such as these. I think it makes life very difficult. With a really good cyanoacrylate you have the ability to hold it exactly in place whilst it sets, and is the work of minutes.
Best,
DJP/MMP