Mr Grumpy

djparkins

Western Thunderer
I soldered mine in on a set of B1 bogies and they work really well, I take it I shouldn't have Dave ?

Richard

Perhaps I should have said "you don't need to".

You can solder them of course, but they just slot in. I'd just fix them with a tiny dab of that much under-rated adhesive Evo-Stik. I suppose its my natural reluctance to soldering everything.

On a different subject and in advance of what might come later - adding some of the nickel silver details [particularly] to the interior. They are designed to be left un-painted and so should be fixed in place with adhesive after painting. It defeats the whole idea of the kit to solder everything. I've had words with Simon V. over this in the past, but there is no convincing him! I told him to think of it as a plastic kit in metal.

DJP/MMP
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I soldered the bogie frames on this morning. They go on very easily and locate nicely with slots on to the internal structure.

The horn guides are tinned ready for the cast axle box supports. Also bogie sides tinned for spring retainers.



I apologise for the poor photography, but I have mislaid the connecting lead from my camera.

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farnetti

Western Thunderer
Hello Mr G

Your two posts today look very neat, I really enjoyed this part of the bogie build. Actually I enjoyed all of it, aligning the brake hangers and stretchers with the wheels was the most difficult bit for me.

Have you decided on springs yet? I went for the coil rather than cast ones, the material can be compressed or lengthened to create the right number of turns in the space available and, in my BG kit, there was plenty surplus of material to play with. Dressing the ends to sit vertically within their mounting plates takes a bit of time but worth it. Or go for the cast ones, once painted and weathered, I doubt that they look much different.

Ken
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Ken,
I read your account of building your BG and was seriously in awe of the bogies you built. I really try to be frugal with the solder, but I still need a lot of practice to perfect the art :)
I realise you used an RSU, and I have thought about getting one myself.
I will be using the real springs and have fitted all the part 10s to the part 9s :)
I won't get chance to play for a few days, but I'm looking forward to completing them over the next couple of weeks!
 
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Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I finally completed my V23 Mink this evening. The buffers put up a bit of a fight, and all the heads had to be cut off and soldered on straight.

The Toad is awaiting transfers from Railtec, as the ones I ordered were not suitable for an AA3, so I have asked for some to be printed.

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Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Good news, my transfers for the Toad are on their way from Railtec, so it will be finished soon :)

I have made progress with the bogies, and got several components made up and ready to go. At present I have fitted all the brake hanger brackets and am in the process of fitting the brake hangers. On his build, Simon Varnham suggests using a drop of baby oil on the hanger to prevent it soldering solid to the brackets. This smelt nice and made my hands soft but didn't otherwise work for me. So I removed and cleaned up the hanger and bracket and coated the hanger with graphite grease, which I normally use on bolt threads when soldering on nuts. So far, so good :) Hopefully this will stand me in good stead when positioning the brake shoes and the rest of the brake gear. I have held back on fitting the bolster spring top fixing brackets to prevent them moving when soldering all the other parts together.
I did have a slight confused moment with the tiny brackets for the suspension spring plates. Dave has added a fine joining bar between a pair of tabs, which wen folded to around 90ish degrees allows two tabs to be fitted at once, and makes the tabs fit firmly while soldering. At first, I thought they were to be folded flat to double their thickness, so of course they wouldn't fit. Dave, as usual, was very patient and explained how they should be fitted, and it speeds up the process quite a bit. However, although the 'bars' are tiny, and probably won't notice once the springs are installed, I filed them off after fitting. Photos attached below.
I'm deviating slightly from the instructions as I'm trying to make sure I can get the iron in as all the parts are fitted. If I had more expertise I'm sure the advised order of assembly would be fine, but I do like to make sub assemblies and fit as a unit if possible.
So, once the hangers are fitted, I can get a lot of parts fitted, and will post some photos then.
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Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I'm between lots of other things going on, I'm getting a little time to continue with the bogies. As I said, I made up the V shaped girders, cross girder and brake hangers then slotted the whole thing in. It worked well. I think I would have struggled to get the brake hangers in later as per instructions. Although this may make adding the brake pulls a little tight if I have soldered the brake shoes in place.

The photos make the bogie look out of square, it isn't and also did sit perfectly level prior to fitting the brake rod safety bars.
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farnetti

Western Thunderer
I like your idea of fitting the brake hangers early and will use on my next build.

Attaching the brake shoes to the cast hangers in correct alignment to the wheels is interesting as there is limited space. The wheels need to be in place to check clearances so soldering them would be difficult. I used glue and think I spent more time on getting these right than anything else.

Are you using the MMP interior?

Ken
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Ken,
Yes, I have the interior to fit too :)
I have popped the wheels and axle boxes in for a trial fit and I can se it will be entertaining to solder the shoes :)
Anyway, Both bogies are at the stage where I'm happy to fit the white metal castings. I have pre-tinned the areas where they will fit, including the brake hangers for the shoes. I might have to do a bit of jiggery pokery to get the shoes and brake pulls together :confused:
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Temeraire

Western Thunderer
What I can never figure out with reasonably complex kits like this is how on earth you get
paint into all the nooks and crannies. Whats the secret?
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
What I can never figure out with reasonably complex kits like this is how on earth you get
paint into all the nooks and crannies. Whats the secret?

I just blow over a fine mist of primer (sometimes etching sometimes not) then for underframes and bogies I usually just do the first coat with Halfords satin black, in light coats, and build up from different angles, then weather with my air brush. If areas can't be seen from normal viewing angles, I either leave it or touch in with a fine brush. If possible, I remove the wheels and spray them satin black then Humbrol leather through my airbrush as in the photo up the page beside my Fruit D :)
 
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