Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
My transfers arrived over the weekend 
I got them on complete with a top coat of mat varnish. I'll carefully cut back the black surround where it over laps the stanchion once I get my new scalpel blades tomorrow:-
I also got the first coat of grime on the bogie wheels...
I got them on complete with a top coat of mat varnish. I'll carefully cut back the black surround where it over laps the stanchion once I get my new scalpel blades tomorrow:- I also got the first coat of grime on the bogie wheels...
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I finished my AA3 Toad today...apart from the instaner couplings, I put them to one side, but I can't remember which side
I have taken a few pics to try to show the flaking paint and heavy rust along the bottom edge of the sheeting. It does look pretty convincing 'in the flesh'
The woodwork has had a mild wash with very much thinned black.
The chassis is painted satin black, Humbrol leather and then a little Railmatch frame dirt. I left the windows reasonably clean.
So that leaves the bench clear to press on with the bogies. I'm trying to think of a way I can keep the wheels removable for painting.
I have taken a few pics to try to show the flaking paint and heavy rust along the bottom edge of the sheeting. It does look pretty convincing 'in the flesh'
The woodwork has had a mild wash with very much thinned black.
The chassis is painted satin black, Humbrol leather and then a little Railmatch frame dirt. I left the windows reasonably clean.
So that leaves the bench clear to press on with the bogies. I'm trying to think of a way I can keep the wheels removable for painting.
farnetti
Western Thunderer
[QUOTE=So that leaves the bench clear to press on with the bogies. I'm trying to think of a way I can keep the wheels removable for painting.
You will need to leave off the tie bars and longitudinal brake rigging until later to do this. Also fix the p/bronze springs as per Richard Carr otherwise they are bound to drop out at some point (and some will never be seen again).
I think I had to drill out the cast axle boxes for the Slaters bearings to get them to fit into the bogie frames, possibly because of S7 clearances. On the other hand this might relate to another MMP build.
While I think of it and much later in the build only fix one end of the brake rod that goes between the bogie and the crank at the centre of the underframe as it will inhibit rotation of the bogie. Obvious really, but I found out the hard way.
Ken
You will need to leave off the tie bars and longitudinal brake rigging until later to do this. Also fix the p/bronze springs as per Richard Carr otherwise they are bound to drop out at some point (and some will never be seen again).
I think I had to drill out the cast axle boxes for the Slaters bearings to get them to fit into the bogie frames, possibly because of S7 clearances. On the other hand this might relate to another MMP build.
While I think of it and much later in the build only fix one end of the brake rod that goes between the bogie and the crank at the centre of the underframe as it will inhibit rotation of the bogie. Obvious really, but I found out the hard way.
Ken
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I had to drill the axle boxes for the Slaters bearings. Also, I countersunk the box for the shoulder of the bearings and cut a fair bit off the axle length. It really is a tight fit, but so far the wheels run perfectly and the bogies sit nice and flat. I think I will end up leaving the wheels fixed.
I got the bolster springs on one bogie today and congratulated myself for buying a coach with single bolster bogies
I got the bolster springs on one bogie today and congratulated myself for buying a coach with single bolster bogies
farnetti
Western Thunderer
I remembered the right model then. I also countersunk the axle box and had to cut the axles short.
The issue I found later is that the axles are not now on pinpoints but just against the brass bearings and I suspect a bit of a loose fit. Like you they ran perfectly but once the finished underframe and body weight is added not quite so good. A bit more resistance and much squeaking, I will poke a bit of oil in after painting is done.
Depending on the outcome I might do the next one (a GUV) differently.
Ken
The issue I found later is that the axles are not now on pinpoints but just against the brass bearings and I suspect a bit of a loose fit. Like you they ran perfectly but once the finished underframe and body weight is added not quite so good. A bit more resistance and much squeaking, I will poke a bit of oil in after painting is done.
Depending on the outcome I might do the next one (a GUV) differently.
Ken
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Hi Ken
I did chamfer the corners of the axles and will add oil before finally fixing the wheels.
Just a quick update... I made up the bolster springs for one bogie and made a start on the axleboxes guides and axleboxes springs. I'm sure the real bogies had four turns on the springs, which these have but is hidden at the top. After seeing the photos, I think I may cut new springs with one more turn. There is a fair amount of cleaning up to do, but I'll get that done when all the castings are on. I do always give the work a vigorous scrub with very hot water, but no soap or liquid, after each modelling session.
I can't keep it as clean as Ken's though
I did chamfer the corners of the axles and will add oil before finally fixing the wheels.
Just a quick update... I made up the bolster springs for one bogie and made a start on the axleboxes guides and axleboxes springs. I'm sure the real bogies had four turns on the springs, which these have but is hidden at the top. After seeing the photos, I think I may cut new springs with one more turn. There is a fair amount of cleaning up to do, but I'll get that done when all the castings are on. I do always give the work a vigorous scrub with very hot water, but no soap or liquid, after each modelling session.
I can't keep it as clean as Ken's though
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Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks Bob!
That's a useful drawing
I remember drawing springs in technical drawing at school
No CAD in those days!
I'm guessing those springs will be changed by this time tomorrow
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I agree with Bob, what may be contributing to the "lack of mass" is that the prototype springs are "closed and ground" at each end hence the spring has a more solid look where the coil meets the spring platform.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
....Yes, I'll have the replacements in later
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks!!Quite
Just so
Thankfully I haven't fitted the springs to the other bogie yet
farnetti
Western Thunderer
"Mr Grumpy, As promised....well worth the effort."
Those springs look good and much better than the cast option.
I have used them to hone up on my low temperature soldering skills.
The tie bar looks slightly bent, could be the camera angle, but the etches are thin and I often holding things where I shouldn't.
Ken
Those springs look good and much better than the cast option.
I have used them to hone up on my low temperature soldering skills.
The tie bar looks slightly bent, could be the camera angle, but the etches are thin and I often holding things where I shouldn't.Ken
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I soldered the brake shoes to one of the bogies and made a start on making up the brake actuator safety straps...there's 32 to cut out and laminate in to 16 straps (of two different types)
I fitted the brake shoes in the following way:
First, I soldered all the shoes in to their approximate position to the pre-tinned hangers, swung up above the bogie to give myself a bit of room. The brakes were then swung down and the wheels temporarily fitted. The wheels have a couple of layers of masking tape on their treads. The shoes were then pushed hard against the wheels and final fitting done by holding my iron against the inside of each shoe in turn until the solder just gave enough to make the adjustment.
The photo shows the shoes fitted, the pegs are holding them against the wheels as they are still free to swing with their hangers.
I fitted the brake shoes in the following way:
First, I soldered all the shoes in to their approximate position to the pre-tinned hangers, swung up above the bogie to give myself a bit of room. The brakes were then swung down and the wheels temporarily fitted. The wheels have a couple of layers of masking tape on their treads. The shoes were then pushed hard against the wheels and final fitting done by holding my iron against the inside of each shoe in turn until the solder just gave enough to make the adjustment.
The photo shows the shoes fitted, the pegs are holding them against the wheels as they are still free to swing with their hangers.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I decided to solder the brake pulls in to their respective pairs and then shoe horn the complete assembly in. It went in a treat, the only fiddly bits were encouraging the safety straps in to position prior to soldering. Once done, everything was still free to move, but I decided to solder the brake pulls in to the brake shoes, so now it's solid.
Only got one end of one bogie done today, but I'm trying to take time to get everything in line
Only got one end of one bogie done today, but I'm trying to take time to get everything in line
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
This one is ready for the spray shop....if it stops raining
I decided not to use the PB springs, but drilled out the top of the axleboxes to 2mm and inserted Slaters W iron springs instead.
The axleboxes sit nicely with 1/2 the weight of the coach on board.
So back to the brake end bogie
I decided not to use the PB springs, but drilled out the top of the axleboxes to 2mm and inserted Slaters W iron springs instead.
The axleboxes sit nicely with 1/2 the weight of the coach on board.
So back to the brake end bogie