Mr Grumpy

[Heather Kay]

Handrails. I know what you mean. What I do, and I'm sure I saw it somewhere else and thought it a good idea, is to make the rails in two halves mirrored about the top centre knob over the smokebox door.

It makes it so much easier to form one side at a time. With a metal model, the rails can be fixed in place with solder, and an invisible joint in the middle knob. Easier to do than explain.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

The 74xx is looking very neat and tidy.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Handrails. I know what you mean. What I do, and I'm sure I saw it somewhere else and thought it a good idea, is to make the rails in two halves mirrored about the top centre knob over the smokebox door.

It makes it so much easier to form one side at a time. With a metal model, the rails can be fixed in place with solder, and an invisible joint in the middle knob. Easier to do than explain.

Thanks Heather,
That's how I done it on my 14xx, and why the smokebox knob is already in place. I just find it a pain to get the curve then the right angle bend back along the tanks. Also, there's a nice little crank set over the top feed pipe cover to look forward to

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The 74xx is looking very neat and tidy.

Thank you Dave!

 

[Heather Kay]

Also, there's a nice little crank set over the top feed pipe cover to look forward to

On the 8750 I'm working on I split the handrail at the next knob along the tank side to accommodate that.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

On the 8750 I'm working on I split the handrail at the next knob along the tank side to accommodate that.

Perfect!! That's what I shall do
Thanks

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The top top feed plumbing, lifting rings, pipe covers and small access doors are all in place, so I can move down to 'pipe up' the injectors and fit the handrails

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The injectors are 'piped up' and were a tad fiddly to get all the bits in. In my previous life I installed gas combi boilers, and these injectors were just as much fun

The steam heat pipe has been wrapped and will go on at the end of the build prior to painting as I don't want the constant rinsing to effect the tape.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I forgot to solder the handrail knobs from behind before fitting the tanks, so they were tinned with 140 then 70 degree solder, then sweated on to the tanks.

The handrails were then fitted one side at a time, joining at the smokebox knob. Also, a joint was made at the tank knob next to the top feed pipe cover, and a crank set made in the last section of handrail.

Next, the sanding leaver will go in to the cab and the roof soldered in place. I can then move on to the backhead and finally the steam heat pipe will be fitted.

 

[simond]

It looks lovely, but my experience with brass handrails is that sooner or later, they get bent. I make mine from piano wire, which is Frankly B. Difficult, but you only do it the once.

I haven't tried the "join at the centre top" approach, but I'm inclined to give it a go. Thanks for the tip!

Best
Simon

 

[Mr Grumpy]

It looks lovely, but my experience with brass handrails is that sooner or later, they get bent. I make mine from piano wire, which is Frankly B. Difficult, but you only do it the once.

I haven't tried the "join at the centre top" approach, but I'm inclined to give it a go. Thanks for the tip!

Best
Simon

Hi Simon,
Thanks for the complement!
The handrails are made from nickel silver wire, and are probably a little stronger than brass ones.
The pipework is copper wire.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I haven't spent a lot of time on my loco, due to discovering the holes for the plunger pickups were too far out for the wheels. I didn't discover this until the pick ups were fitted, wired up and motor installed. I contacted Dave and he realised he hadn't moved the holes to correspond to the smaller diameter wheels on the 64/7400. He made me some discs which I soldered in to the redundant holes and I re-drilled new ones. This turned out to be very handy, as the original centre pick ups fouled the motor.

So, at last, I have a fully functioning chassis that runs like a sewing machine

Only the roof, buffers and steam heat pipework to fit before spraying, then just the back head left.

Here she is running on the rolling road. I have used a SWD decoder with the oblong speaker...it does sound nice

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I got the gauge nuts drilled 0.45mm on the Proxxon pillar drill and soldered in the copper wire. Mark JJ kindly supplied the GWR gauge faces These will be glued on after another coat of white.
....,,yes, the gauge on the right will get a second 'pipe' added

Then the gauges will be glued in to the cab following painting.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Not exactly the TME standard elsewhere on this site, but once installed in the cab they do look the part

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The back head is nearly finished. The red paintwork will be toned down later.

I'll get the roof on and the loco in primer next. I have tinned the rear of the back head and cab, and will solder in place once the loco is painted.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The pipework along the sides of the back head needed some attention of a file to enable it to fit nicely between the splashers. Last view with the 'lid' off

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I forgot to add the photo of the recently fitted wrapped steam pipe!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Apart from a really good scrub down, my 7400 is ready for painting at last! It's been a bit of a trial in places, but builds in to a lovely loco.

I may get time to build the fruit D before my baseboards arrive

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The weather was perfect for getting a coat of primer on the loco today. A couple of porous marks have shown through but will be easily filled.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The weather out in the paint shop has been perfect again, so I cracked on and got her painted

Once the paint is thoroughly dry, I will fit the buffers, couplings and back head.

I'm still in two minds on weather to use the cycling lion or ferret and dartboard motif. Decisions, decisions