Brian Daniels
Western Thunderer
Ok I have put all my 14xx pictures on my Flicke site 14xx Details
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I've been busy finishing off the odds and ends, and finally had my loco running today 
To be honest, I'm not totally happy with the plunger pickups, they do drag a little.
I sprayed a patch of gloss black before adding the emblems, and they went on without a trace of silvering, then coated the loco with satin varnish. I added a tiny drop of grey with the top coat of varnish to try for a dusty finish. I will over spray the whole loco and chassis with a very light coat of grime to tie everything in and to help fade the emblems. I will then finish with sooty black across the top of the boiler, tanks and roof.
I haven't made the CPL couplings yet as my 12BA tap still hasn't arrived, number plates due next week
To be honest, I'm not totally happy with the plunger pickups, they do drag a little.
I sprayed a patch of gloss black before adding the emblems, and they went on without a trace of silvering, then coated the loco with satin varnish. I added a tiny drop of grey with the top coat of varnish to try for a dusty finish. I will over spray the whole loco and chassis with a very light coat of grime to tie everything in and to help fade the emblems. I will then finish with sooty black across the top of the boiler, tanks and roof.
I haven't made the CPL couplings yet as my 12BA tap still hasn't arrived, number plates due next week
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Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I'm still waiting for the number plates to arrive, but other than that my loco is complete! I fitted CPL GWR couplings and MarkJJ sent me some GWR crank pin nuts which are now on.
I finished the loco in a workaday finish, not too heavy on the weathering.
The sound decoder is from SWD and is very good, and resides, via a plug, in the boiler. I had to fit a smaller speaker than the one supplied, but the sound is still great.
I will post an additional photo whem the plates are fitted.
So here she is.....
I finished the loco in a workaday finish, not too heavy on the weathering.
The sound decoder is from SWD and is very good, and resides, via a plug, in the boiler. I had to fit a smaller speaker than the one supplied, but the sound is still great.
I will post an additional photo whem the plates are fitted.
So here she is.....
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I decided to take a rummage through the JLTRT Hymek box today.
The main body components are crisp and the detail is very sharp.
Here are the main components:
All the castings are, as far as I can tell, perfect without any flash or distortion. Considering the moulds are around 12 years old, that is excellent!
The white metal bogie frames, seats and tanks are just as good....
as are the mass of brass castings....
The bogie chassis etches are my favourite nickel silver. They are different designs, as the kit has clearly been designed for one motor bogie.
Every thing is present and correct including glazing, screws and wire. The motor bogie is being supplied by ABC, the ESU decoder is from Howes and 35mm speaker from Cliff Williams.
I'm going to start with the trailing bogie this week
The main body components are crisp and the detail is very sharp.
Here are the main components:
All the castings are, as far as I can tell, perfect without any flash or distortion. Considering the moulds are around 12 years old, that is excellent!
The white metal bogie frames, seats and tanks are just as good....
as are the mass of brass castings....The bogie chassis etches are my favourite nickel silver. They are different designs, as the kit has clearly been designed for one motor bogie.
Every thing is present and correct including glazing, screws and wire. The motor bogie is being supplied by ABC, the ESU decoder is from Howes and 35mm speaker from Cliff Williams.I'm going to start with the trailing bogie this week
Compton castle
Western Thunderer
There are some fantastic pictures of D7017 in the gallery pages with many close up shots around the bogies.
Certainly helped me out when I was detailing a Heljan version with JLTRT parts. Plenty of good shots for all the pipe runs too.
Certainly helped me out when I was detailing a Heljan version with JLTRT parts. Plenty of good shots for all the pipe runs too.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the info! I have now checked them out!
I always loved the Hymek and it was my firm favourite before I discovered 33/1s pushing their coaches along!
When I used to photograph the Hymeks from across the road from my house, and at Reading General, I only had limited access to my dad's trusty Kodak instamatic, so the few photos tended to be a tad blurred! (Didn't understand panning as an 11 year old)
The only photo I can lay my hands on though is this unidentified Hymek passing through the goods line at Reading General in 1971 with the Earley power station oil tanker empties. I lived opposite the power station and loved watching the Westerns, warships, Hymeks and Blue pullman. The Westerns got a bit tedious though and I used to long for a 31 or 37 to come along.... Opposite, in the exchange sidings, a Stephenson 0-6-0 saddle tank used to spend the day shuffling a few 16t minerals in to the unloading shed.
Oh....and it was always sunny, and never rained!!
Remember these........?
I always loved the Hymek and it was my firm favourite before I discovered 33/1s pushing their coaches along!
When I used to photograph the Hymeks from across the road from my house, and at Reading General, I only had limited access to my dad's trusty Kodak instamatic, so the few photos tended to be a tad blurred! (Didn't understand panning as an 11 year old)
The only photo I can lay my hands on though is this unidentified Hymek passing through the goods line at Reading General in 1971 with the Earley power station oil tanker empties. I lived opposite the power station and loved watching the Westerns, warships, Hymeks and Blue pullman. The Westerns got a bit tedious though and I used to long for a 31 or 37 to come along.... Opposite, in the exchange sidings, a Stephenson 0-6-0 saddle tank used to spend the day shuffling a few 16t minerals in to the unloading shed.
Oh....and it was always sunny, and never rained!!
Remember these........?
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oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I have two or three colour shots of Hymeks in green if they may be of use? I can't remember whether these have been on WT already, though. No detail shots, just traditional three quarter views and one in works.
Brian
Brian
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Here's some pics, with pleasure.
D7001. Swindon Works. 23 May 1965. Personal Collection. Photo Brian Dale.
D7006. Old Oak Common. 15 November 1964. Photo Brian Dale
D7015. Swindon Works. 23 May 1965. Personal Collection. Photo Brian Dale.
D7056. Southall. 5 December 1965. Personal Collection. FINAL. Photo by Brian Dale.
Hope they are of interest - and better still some help!
Brian
D7001. Swindon Works. 23 May 1965. Personal Collection. Photo Brian Dale.
D7006. Old Oak Common. 15 November 1964. Photo Brian Dale
D7015. Swindon Works. 23 May 1965. Personal Collection. Photo Brian Dale.
D7056. Southall. 5 December 1965. Personal Collection. FINAL. Photo by Brian Dale.
Hope they are of interest - and better still some help!
Brian
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Here are the components for one bogie. Although I will be using an ABC motor bogie, I used the motor bogie etch as it had the plunger pickup holes almost to the correct diameter.
The brass castings were cut from their spruced using a feet saw.
So, loads of holes to drill, casting tails to tin then get it all soldered on to the frames
There are lifeguards fitted to both ends of the bogie, from what I can tell they would only be fitted at the outer end, o the inner ones will be removed.
The brass castings were cut from their spruced using a feet saw.
So, loads of holes to drill, casting tails to tin then get it all soldered on to the frames
There are lifeguards fitted to both ends of the bogie, from what I can tell they would only be fitted at the outer end, o the inner ones will be removed.
Healey Mills
Western Thunderer
Hi Grumps,
It seems like you're making some good progress with this. I can now see why you have elected to go for one of the ABC motor bogies, I guess the basic frame of the bogie you have just built is essentially the outside of the ABC unit.
Lets suppose that you weren't going to use the ABC motor bogie, how is the motor and gearbox mounted.... is it the same way as all the JLTRT stuff? Or perhaps there's a way to mount the motor longitudinally beneath the bogie fixing pivot with a gearbox on each axle?
I'm over at ELR again on Saturday as 40135 is running (now in green with full yellow noses and TOPS numbers - nice ) if I get chance I shall try to take some time out to get that last photo of the Hymek cab that you need - probably means opening up the electrics box so no pesky glass to cause reflections!!
Keep up with the good work on this build. I wouldn't mind one of these myself but as you know my reluctance to solder would be an overriding factor
Cheers
Lee
It seems like you're making some good progress with this. I can now see why you have elected to go for one of the ABC motor bogies, I guess the basic frame of the bogie you have just built is essentially the outside of the ABC unit.
Lets suppose that you weren't going to use the ABC motor bogie, how is the motor and gearbox mounted.... is it the same way as all the JLTRT stuff? Or perhaps there's a way to mount the motor longitudinally beneath the bogie fixing pivot with a gearbox on each axle?
I'm over at ELR again on Saturday as 40135 is running (now in green with full yellow noses and TOPS numbers - nice
) if I get chance I shall try to take some time out to get that last photo of the Hymek cab that you need - probably means opening up the electrics box so no pesky glass to cause reflections!!Keep up with the good work on this build. I wouldn't mind one of these myself but as you know my reluctance to solder would be an overriding factor
Cheers
Lee
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Hi Lee,
I have used the motor bogie, just for the pick up holes.
I have attached a couple of photos of the bogie. It differs from the instructions, so not sure which motor/gearbox would be used, or how it would be fitted.
The chassis is very straightforward to assemble and solder, the nickel silver is thickish so a 50w iron minimum is needed. The cosmetic frames screw to it, and they can be glued together with Araldite or something similar.
I know it's easy to say a soldering job is straightforward, and may be daunting if you aren't used to it. But N/S does seem to solder easier than brass.
I tack soldered the pieces and ensured everything was dead square on a sheet of glass before running a fillet along the joints.
I may have told you before, I started with a Conneseur BR brake van. It has a little bit of everything to build your confidence and Jim is one of the most helpful guys out there!
Thanks in advance for the photo, the ones you have already supplied are excellent!
(please excuse the screws, they are just temporary ones I had lying around, as the ones supplied didn't fit)
I have used the motor bogie, just for the pick up holes.
I have attached a couple of photos of the bogie. It differs from the instructions, so not sure which motor/gearbox would be used, or how it would be fitted.
The chassis is very straightforward to assemble and solder, the nickel silver is thickish so a 50w iron minimum is needed. The cosmetic frames screw to it, and they can be glued together with Araldite or something similar.
I know it's easy to say a soldering job is straightforward, and may be daunting if you aren't used to it. But N/S does seem to solder easier than brass.
I tack soldered the pieces and ensured everything was dead square on a sheet of glass before running a fillet along the joints.
I may have told you before, I started with a Conneseur BR brake van. It has a little bit of everything to build your confidence and Jim is one of the most helpful guys out there!
Thanks in advance for the photo, the ones you have already supplied are excellent!
(please excuse the screws, they are just temporary ones I had lying around, as the ones supplied didn't fit)
Healey Mills
Western Thunderer
Thanks for those photos of the frame. I'm guessing that you could fit two of Steph Dales gearboxes in, plus a motor laid flat.
Something I haven't mentioned... you may already know this, but one of the first things I do is get the cabs primed (I use Phoenix Precision two part Etch primer). I have found that unless you get the cabs painted and detailed it holds the whole build up. Not that we're in a rush, but the primer takes a couple of days to 'do it's thing'. Once fully detailed the bulkheads can be fixed to cabs and you can start to build the body.
Cheers
Lee
Something I haven't mentioned... you may already know this, but one of the first things I do is get the cabs primed (I use Phoenix Precision two part Etch primer). I have found that unless you get the cabs painted and detailed it holds the whole build up. Not that we're in a rush, but the primer takes a couple of days to 'do it's thing'. Once fully detailed the bulkheads can be fixed to cabs and you can start to build the body.
Cheers
Lee
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the heads up! The cab detailing is exquisite, hence my nagging for the switch gear box (if that's what it's called)
When you prime the parts, do you need to mask off the glueing areas?
I was surprised and delighted how much detail is provided for the cab and the bogie frames.
I see 'Detailed Miniatures' are producing crew specially for some of the JLTRT range, including the 22. So hopefully they may have something suitable for the Hymek.
When you prime the parts, do you need to mask off the glueing areas?
I was surprised and delighted how much detail is provided for the cab and the bogie frames.
I see 'Detailed Miniatures' are producing crew specially for some of the JLTRT range, including the 22. So hopefully they may have something suitable for the Hymek.
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Lee,
Yes it should be possible to do that. The 10'6" wheelbase would be long enough to allow for two gearboxes and an 1833.
I think if I were given the choice I'd go for a larger motor positioned centrally and use four gearboxes to drive all axles, as I proposed for my Class 22. I just wish I had the time to pursue all these ideas!
Steph
Healey Mills
Western Thunderer
I normally do mask off those areas obviously so that resin bonds to resin. I guess it would be quite weak if it were resin to paint
Healey Mills
Western Thunderer
Oh that's waaaaaay out of my league!!!