Mr Grumpy

[Mr Grumpy]

I haven't made a great deal of progress, but the bogie frames and roof panel are now primed. I soldered the bezel to the fan mesh as I didn't trust the glue once the mesh had been formed. I'm still waiting for ABC to send my frame extensions...
I seem to be spending a lot of time cutting and painting millions of tiny brass castings!

 

[Temeraire]

Hi Anthony,

I, Like Richard, no longer have my GUVs, but I did take these during the build which may be of use to you.

good luck with your build.

cheers

Mike

Thanks for posting the photos Mike. It really helps alot! Much appreciated.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I have been nibbling away at the castings and made a little progress
The two air tanks, valves and pipework are complete.
The buffers took a little fettling but came up a treat. To prevent the oval buffer heads moving to strange angles, I modified them slightly. Usually, one can solder a thin wire across the rear of the two buffers and that keeps them level. However, the previously mentioned air tanks are in the way and prevent that little dodge.
I cut a slot in the rear of the stock and drilled 0.5mm through the shank and inserted a length of wire. The wire will need to be perfectly flush with the outer edge of the stock otherwise it will foul the hole in the buffer beam.

 

[Heather Kay]

Neat idea, filed for future use.

 

[Scale7JB]

What Heather said /\

JB.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Another one for the plagiarism list or book more like...

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Most of the day has been spent painting the multitude of castings of this kit. The castings have all been excellent, and the only ones that needed a little fettling were the buffers, stocks and couplings (quite a bit).
I got fed up waiting for the frame extdnsions for my ABC motor bogie, so for now just used longer screws to hold the bogie frames in place. The bolt head supplied with the kit fouls the cardan shaft, do I will solder it to the bogie pivot and remove the bolt head. So the bogie, apart from painting the motor bogie frames and wheels is more or less complete, and runs, to my surprise remarkably silently! The trailing bogie is also ready for the frames to be dropped on once the wheels are dry.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I'm running out of things to do with my Hymek as I have a two week wait for my 'Detailed Miniatures' driver figures to be made. I decided on just a driver in each cab, and I can imagine the chap in the trailing cab is the second man, perhaps sulking after a fall out with the driver
Anyway, I got the bogies and fuel tank weathered. I'm not happy as the fuel gauge is in the incorrect position on one side,and will freely admit to borrowing Lee's weathering technique, which I'm peeved to say came out better than mine Having said that, I was trying to be a little more subtle as the loco will be modelled as being a few weeks old ; my excuse and I'm sticking with it!
The buffers are finished and work well, also I finished the loose roof panel and weathered the fan. I may have to dive in to my etched toad kit to keep me from under my wife's feet! Otherwise I can feel some household chores being lined up

 

[Healey Mills]

Hi Grumps,

Hey don't go following what I do for weathering..... that's tantamount to disaster

I really like the look of the finish you have on the bogies! Have you stuck the scavenge fan and grill onto the roof piece? If so, how do you intend to spray the roof???

Out of interest, which red have you used for the buffer housings?

Can't believe you've got to a point where you're forced into household chores..... that's why I buy two of these, never run out of building options

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

....The roof is a just a drop in panel that is removable for access in to the body, so has been painted with JLTRT coach roof grey celly prior to fixing the fan
I tried Humbrol signal red for the buffers and beam on my 1400, but it came up pink, so I just use Humbrol 19, bright red gloss enamel.
I have masked the gluing points on the cab and bulkheads so I could spray some diesel cab grey in there.
All the cocks and hoses are painted and ready to plant on the buffer beam, but I will leave these till later to make masking easier.
Both the bogies are up and running, although I did dismantle the trailing one and filed the tips off the pickups. As there is no drive mechanism the wheels were skating as the pick ups acted as very effective brakes!

 

[richard carr]

Hi Mike,
Both look very good, although the inner springs suffer from twisting as Adrian says.
As an aside, did you manage to get your JLTRT GUV to sit at the correct height?
I built mine not long after it came out, so the issue may have been sorted since.

I'm a bit late to this, but the problem with the JLTRT commonwealth bogie riding too high are the axle boxes. The axle boxes are also the wrong shape, they are not rectangular as you can see below.

You need to cut a slot in the top of the axle box for the equalizing beam to sit in, this allows the axle box to sit higher up the hornblock and then lowers the ride height of the bogie by the depth of the slot. If you look at the real thing you will see that the axle boxes ride towards the top/centre of the hornblock, where as in post 471 above the JLTRT axleboxes are at the very bottom of the horn block.

 

[40126]

I took this at Butterley on Saturday





Does these help ?. Same coach.

Steve

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The frame end spacers arrived from ABC today. Once fitted, the motor bogie is nice and firm in the cosmetic frame, smooth and quiet. The complete bogie is installed in to the loco exactly as the bogies supplied with the kit.
A very nice, straightforward motor bogie option!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I spent an enjoyable hour painting in the details on the cab bulkheads and desks.
Many thanks to Lee for your resilience in obtaining the photos of the switches etc in the cabinet. I forgot to photograph the desks, but here are the bulkheads....(Still a couple of cabinet handles to attach)

 

[richard carr]

Richard

Don't forget to use some of the the in cab transfers that Pugsley (on here) sells, it just adds that finishing touch.

Richard

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thanks Richard!
I bought some for my 47 and then misplaced them! I made some on my computer and used those, but if they don't turn up I may well get some more as the dials and gauges could do with a bit of detail added.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I ordered some soft white and red 12v 2mm LEDs yesterday from 'Rapid Electronics' Electronic Components from Rapid - the Electronic Parts Specialist | Rapid Online
Aparently they don't require resistors as they are 12v. They have an abundance of goodies that are of use to us modellers, and prices are very reasonable.
Just to say, their service is excellent as I paid for the cheapest postage available and they arrived by courior today. I haven't tried the LEDs yet, but thought if was worth letting you guys know.

 

[Healey Mills]

Richard

Don't forget to use some of the the in cab transfers that Pugsley (on here) sells, it just adds that finishing touch.

Richard

Sorry for a short hijack Grumps.....

Richard,

What are the cab decals?... I've been after something for my class 40 cabs.

Cheers
Lee

 

[Healey Mills]

Grumps,

Those cab bulkheads look superb!!! They just need a little dirt now

Cheers
Lee

 

[mickoo]

Aparently they don't require resistors as they are 12v. They have an abundance of goodies that are of use to us modellers, and prices are very reasonable.

Just to be clear, all LED's require a resistor if the supply voltage is greater than 3v, however, what you probably have is an LED with a resistor already embedded and the value is pre-set for 12v

That's good if your supply is 12v, not good if it's anything else, especially lower. I'm not sure what DCC chips send out for lights, could be 12v, could be 3v, might even be 18v in which case your LED's will not work, just something to be aware of.

Mick D