3 Links Work Bench

[3 LINK]

I managed a couple more hours today although to look at what I have done you wouldn't think so, the etches are quite delicate and care must be taken when cleaning the smaller parts with a file. The brakes are now also fitted but not the linkages and yet I still managed to make the same mistake again and that was to remember to leave the brake vacuum cylinder OFF until ALL the brake shoes and linkages are fitted , not a big problem to rectify just bl**dy annoying. Anyway below are all the etches cleaned up and a view of the underframe with the brakes fitted.



I have highlighted the next photo because you will give yourself a problem if you do not fit them properly, the offending article I am holding with the pliers is the end bracket of the handbrake (one each end ). There is a notch on the bracket that must go into the U channel of the buffer beam, you have to twist these in at an angle to make them fit also there is a locating hole that needs to be opened out first otherwise it will not fit flush against the solebar, if you do not fit these brackets flush then later on when you go to fit the buffers you won't be able to . Believe it or not but I have not made that mistake but can see it could cause a problem.



ATB, Martyn.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Useful tip about the handbrake bracket

 

[3 LINK]

As you can see from the next two images the brake work is now completed, there are three main brake pull rods but only two are joined to the main brake cross shaft which operates from the vacuum cylinder, when you thread the linkages onto the main brake cross shaft do not forget to also fit on the actuating arm that goes to the cylinder .





That is not rust that you can see on the rear of the wheel rim but for some reason it reflects that colour, weird .

I have now fitted the buffers and just placed the tank on the chassis to see how it looks , the tank has now had two coats of primer mainly to show up any holes or imperfections. The filler I use is called Model Lite and it is mainly use by the model aeroplane chaps and in my opinion the best on the market, it dries quick and you can smooth it even finer by just adding the slightest "drip" of water.



Next I have built up and fitted the saddles and spill plates, most of the major work is now complete but saying that it's the intricate detail that is still left to do that takes the time .



Also with this particular kit you are given the choice of building the earlier version, you would need to exchange the wheels to the spoked variety for a start, then fit the additional two saddles and boards that fitted along the side of the tank bottom. These parts are included in the kit and also a "sun shield", although these "sun shields were later removed, they were fitted to tankers built before 1936, so you do need to do some research as with most things GWR.



ATB, Martyn.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Interesting update Martyn

Those tanks look like they might be bit .......erm challenging to fill ?

Cheers Phill

 

[lancer1027]

Hi Martyn , This is a very helpful build. I have been watching this with interest as i need to build a few of these. Your advice on "which order" to build has been extremely helpful. Thankyou much appreciated..
I look forward to the next posting

Rob

 

[Rob Pulham]

Interesting update Martyn

Those tanks look like they might be bit .......erm challenging to fill ?

Cheers Phill

Did you find them easy to fill? I took one look at the 3 part tank on my Slaters 14 ton tank and promptly rolled a brass replacement rather than fill/sand it.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Did you find them easy to fill? I took one look at the 3 part tank on my Slaters 14 ton tank and promptly rolled a brass replacement rather than fill/sand it.

I will be tempted to do the same, although I may try to source some suitable diameter tube though

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Guys,

The building of the tank was one of the easier parts to be honest, the tank sides are also in three parts and what I do is place one of the ends flat on the bench and then just offer the sides up one at a time and before you know it, it's done. Hardly anything to worry about . Oh I forgot to say before I fit the other end piece of the tank, I araldite a few ounces of lead into the tank first as the tanker is very light otherwise .

ATB, Martyn.

 

[28ten]

Did you find them easy to fill? I took one look at the 3 part tank on my Slaters 14 ton tank and promptly rolled a brass replacement rather than fill/sand it.

I have always done the same thing, me and plastic cylinders just dont go together but this looks a better fit.

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Martyn , This is a very helpful build. I have been watching this with interest as i need to build a few of these. Your advice on "which order" to build has been extremely helpful. Thankyou much appreciated..
I look forward to the next posting

Rob

Hi Rob,

The diagrams with the kit are not to bad (seen a lot worse !!) and I think it's been designed for modellers who have already built a few kits, so in fairness not to bad. Funnily enough I have only just noticed another aid to the build in the instructions which I had not noticed before so later on I will write that one up as well.

Did you find them easy to fill? I took one look at the 3 part tank on my Slaters 14 ton tank and promptly rolled a brass replacement rather than fill/sand it.

Hi Rob,

I built one of those 14 ton tanks about 20 yrs ago gosh where does the time go, and my modelling skills then were not that hot so no change there then , and from what I remember then I had no trouble in building the tank. Are you sure you have not got a phobia on tank building ( in plastic ) . I will try and dig the tanker out later and put it up on here, let you see if you can spot the seams .

ATB, Martyn.

 

[Old Buffer]

Martyn,
I think Michele (who is one of the poachers) designed the tank kit when she worked at Slaters. From what I’ve been told she designed it for ease of assembly, and did some test builds. She is a very good modeller, and usually has a table at the guild events.
Alan

 

[28ten]

I built one of those 14 ton tanks about 20 yrs ago gosh where does the time go, and my modelling skills then were not that hot so no change there then , and from what I remember then I had no trouble in building the tank. Are you sure you have not got a phobia on tank building ( in plastic ) . I will try and dig the tanker out later and put it up on here, let you see if you can spot the seams .

ATB, Martyn.

I just couldnt get a cylinder when I did mine, and then the filling required removed the rivet detail. I seem to remember a similar comment in MRJ at the time.

 

[3 LINK]

Martyn,
I think Michele (who is one of the poachers) designed the tank kit when she worked at Slaters. From what I’ve been told she designed it for ease of assembly, and did some test builds. She is a very good modeller, and usually has a table at the guild events.
Alan

Hi Alan,

Yes I know Michele and as you say she is a very skilled modeller, actually if you look at my "rant" in my gallery posts , it was Michele who helped me solve the problem regarding the first 6 wheeled tanker I built .

I finally found the 14 ton tanker in a box that was still unpacked since our return from living in France, and we have been back nearly 5 years although it seems to be in one piece .





The tanker above has the etched axle guards with the sprung axle boxes and after a bit of light machine oil seems to trundle nicely up and down the diorama, I have just noticed that it is still quite shiny so it will be joining the queue for a bit of weathering in the near future.

Regarding an earlier post I made about not noticing a certain instruction well it concerned the location of the discharge valves which are sited at each end of the tank, and I thought at the time it was a bit hit and miss to site them correctly as there are no pre formed holes. Well in the top right hand corner of page 6 there is a scale drawing which you can use as a template to site them correctly, so do not say I didn't tell you .



That's all for now,

ATB, Martyn.

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Guys,

Managed to get a couple of hours at the bench today and I started by drilling the end bolsters ready to feed through the tie rods, they are a bit fiddly as they have to be drilled at an angle so I do this by hand and take my time.



Next I solder on a couple of 12BA nuts ( not supplied ) to the ends of the tie rods, in most photos I have seen there are two nuts fitted on each end, one for adjustment and one as a lock nut ( I would think ).



Next are the steps this is the one part of the kit I do not enjoy doing I find them very fiddly and even though they supply you a jig, you really need another pair of hands .





Below are the parts I have completed today ready for painting tie rods, steps and tank strapping .



A few posts back somebody ( sorry cannot remember the name ) asked what paint I used on the tank body, well I had run out so I went back to Halfords and brought another can of Halfords aluminium paint ( identical ) and guess what ? Nothing like the can before never mind they will both be heavily weathered I suppose , spot the difference below .



That 08 is just the works shunter below, and before someone spots it yes that is a brillo-pad being used as a buffer stop .



That's all for now,

Martyn.

 

[Rob Pulham]

Just a thought Martyn but have you got two jigs (having built two tanks)? and would using two make life easier?

 

[Phill Dyson]

Nice to see some more progress Martyn .........BTW have you seen this gallery thread http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/6-wheel-milk-tanks-in-detail.14/ if not it may be of interest ?

Cheers Phill

 

[alcazar]

That's not a Brillo pad.

This: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_a9ybu679M1M/S_L_iUKZaGI/AAAAAAAAABI/23xLje8VxpU/s1600/brillo.JPG is a Brllo pad

 

[3 LINK]

Just a thought Martyn but have you got two jigs (having built two tanks)? and would using two make life easier?

Hi Rob,

Yes I have tried that but they are a very loose fit, I suppose they could be held on with Blu-tack it's funny how you think of these things after the event , well in my case anyway .

Nice to see some more progress Martyn .........BTW have you seen this gallery thread http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/6-wheel-milk-tanks-in-detail.14/ if not it may be of interest ?

Cheers Phill

Hi Phill,

I haven't seen those pictures before especially the one down at Minehead which is quite a close match, the only difference from what I can see is the brake gear . Slaters also do the LMS 6 wheeled tanker which is great as I did not know that one had been preserved, but it's great to see them in colour all the same .

That's not a Brillo pad.

This: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_a9ybu679M1M/S_L_iUKZaGI/AAAAAAAAABI/23xLje8VxpU/s1600/brillo.JPG is a Brllo pad

Well in my defence, down here sarf of the river if it's Green it's a Brillo -pad .

All the best chaps,

Martyn.

 

[David Siddall]

Could we have a link please David (if it's an online build)

Cheers Phill

Certainly will do Phill (...if only to prove that a prerequisite of modelling in the public eye is a finally tuned sense of humour). Might be a while though... I'm currently doing battle with a box van and hand-built track :-/

 

[3 LINK]

As you can see from the photo's below both tankers are now finished apart from some transfers and grime to be sprayed at them, one of the tanks is also a bit lighter than the other this was down to a supposedly identical can of Halfords Aluminium . These will be the last pictures of the build unless there is an interest in seeing them weathered later on in the year.





ATB, Martyn.