3 Links Work Bench

[lancer1027]

EXCELLENT Martyn. They look superb. I dont know about anyone else but i would certainly be interested in your weathering techniques for then plus of course pics to show the technique.

Rob

 

[Simon]

Two very good models of a very handsome prototype, perhaps I would like to build another one....

I look forward to seeing the grotification

Simon

 

[3 LINK]

Thanks Guys,

The " grotification " might even be brought forward with all this promise of good weather being forecast .

Martyn.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Thanks for the inspiration Martyn....you have made me want to make the building of my rake of milk tanks a top priority

I too will look forward to the "grotification"

Cheers Phill

 

[sulzer]

This is brilliant stuff Martyn - thanks! I did have a bit of a fright as my underframe is symmetrical but then I am doing Slaters 7073 which is slightly different than yours being LMS and not GWR. There is a story here...I purchased from a SW dealer one of those wretched D---L POW wagons and could not live with the defects and errors and the dealer kindly took it back and so to use the credit I selected this 6 wheel tank wagon....

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Bryan,

I wouldn't worry to much about modellers licence what with it being originally from the LMS, I model roughly the same era as yourself and by that time most of the tankers had travelled far from their original working area.

Both of my tankers have now received some weathering but I am not sure if I have posted them up on here have a terrible memory, if I cannot find them I will put a couple up on here for you.

They are due back in the paint shop soon though, as I have now found out my numbering was not correct sigh never mind.

ATB,

Martyn.

P.S. Ah yes I did post them up on my gallery, they are on the second page:-

http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/3-links-gallery-of-all-things-western-region.1394/

 

[sulzer]

Hi Martyn
A tube of model filler arrived in the post today and so have been able to fill those join lines in the Tank and then sand them down. This is tank kit No.2 and I have no fears with joining the sections together and getting an invisible join. Why though cannot Slater's supply a length of 42mm (or what ever it is) plastic pipe - someone must make it.... I will heed the advice to Araldite some lead in the bottom of the tank before cementing in the ends.I have heard of a tip of drilling in the bottom of the tank a very small hole to relieve any pressure build up of glue?? or is this a red herring?

Have just been trawling through the threads of this topic am grateful to you for your postings. It will all come in useful in the later stages of construction. I agree with other guys who have posted on here, that these kits are aimed at those who have made a few kits before and know the basic construction. I can say that having made several Parkside Mineral wagons and PO wagons I really do not need the instructions any more...... However I can recall the times when I was perplexed by the terms W Irons and similar railway wagon terms lol! But now and again you encounter difficulties like this 6 wheel milk tank. Now JLTRT kits are another 'ball game' with the brake gear but do with perseverance look good... the topic of another thread if it has not already been done!!

Kind regards
Bryan

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Bryan,

I think that would of been a good solution regarding the use of a plastic tube rather than having to do the tooling for the three sections, perhaps Mr White wanted to test our patience .

Regarding the adverse effect of the lead and glue, I have seen photos of a distorted loco boiler with the smoke box door peeled off . I think the chap used that product called " liquid lead " which are thousands of little balls of lead that get into all the nooks and crannies, then to secure them in place he poured PVA glue over them. I think it was quite some time later that the reaction occurred, personally I use sheet lead and Araldite and so far so good.

ATB,

Martyn.

 

[Steph Dale]

Martyn, Brian,

Liquid lead is only a problem if it's glued in with PVA. I use either liquid superglue or epoxy and have had no problems.

The idea of drilling the tank (or any other enclosed space in a styrene model) is merely to let the solvent escape, otherwise it'll end up coming through the side of the tank, which will soften and distort it.

Steph

 

[Phill Dyson]

I left breather holes in the bottom of my tanks

I do agree about tubing, I would probably use brass tube if I were to do them again

 

[sulzer]

Can I ask where you got the 'Express Dairies' plates from please?

regards
Bryan

 

[3 LINK]

Can I ask where you got the 'Express Dairies' plates from please?

regards
Bryan

Hi Bryan,


The plates are made by Slaters, but they are very hard to locate in their vast catalogue. If you are going to Telford you should be able to buy them there, and I think they also do United Dairies.

ATB,

Martyn.

P.S. Found them :-
X7073EX Etched Name plate for 7073 Express Dairy £2.21 £2.65
X7073UD Etched Name plate for 7073 United Dairy £2.21 £2.65

 

[Clive Dackus]

Hi Martin

Do you have any photo's of how you fitted the vacuum and steam pipes/valves to your build please. I am unsure of how to mate the plastic through pipes with the cast brass vacuum and steam pipes/valves on the underside of the chassis.

Clive

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Clive,

If I remember rightly the vacuum pipe castings incorporate like a small locating pin, so you have to drill a hole in the underneath of the buffer beam and then glue the casting pin into the hole to secure.

The through pipes I just warmed them up so I could bend them to shape and just used some super glue to bond together.

If a photo would explain things better let me know and I will take a photo sometime over the weekend .

Martyn.

 

[Simon]

I replaced the plastic through pipes with some copper wire from a heavy earth cable and soldered the fittings on, I think, it was a few years ago now.

Although mine is the G1 version I'm sure you could find some suitable brass or copper wire, I'd think the earth in normal twin & earth would be about right for your scale, available from skips all over the country if you haven't got any

Simon

 

[3 LINK]

Hi Simon,

Thank you for the tip it would certainly save time, I do tend to get a "blinkered vision" sometimes rather than to think of an easier option .

Martyn.

 

[Clive Dackus]

Hi Clive,

If I remember rightly the vacuum pipe castings incorporate like a small locating pin, so you have to drill a hole in the underneath of the buffer beam and then glue the casting pin into the hole to secure.

The through pipes I just warmed them up so I could bend them to shape and just used some super glue to bond together.

If a photo would explain things better let me know and I will take a photo sometime over the weekend .

Martyn.

A photo would be much appreciated please Martyn if you have time.

Clive

 

[3 LINK]

My camera is not that good at close ups but hopefully you can see the pipe runs, the tanker is in the cripple siding at present with a serious vacuum leak .



Martyn.

 

[Clive Dackus]

Excellent Martyn, thanks a lot for your help.

Clive