simond
Western Thunderer
Anyway, progress in other areas is more satisfying.
The close-up shows that I have a bit of an interference between the cylinders and the front brake cross-shaft. This is preventing the cylinders sitting down properly. I suspect the Proxxon will sort it in short order.
I haven’t fitted the brakes permanently yet as I want to 3DP some of the castings that support the pivots, I know Warren does brass casting but it wasn’t included and I can just print it. I’ll get them on tonight.
Atb
Simon
The close-up shows that I have a bit of an interference between the cylinders and the front brake cross-shaft. This is preventing the cylinders sitting down properly. I suspect the Proxxon will sort it in short order.
I haven’t fitted the brakes permanently yet as I want to 3DP some of the castings that support the pivots, I know Warren does brass casting but it wasn’t included and I can just print it. I’ll get them on tonight.
Atb
Simon
Lawrence Boul
Active Member
I'm a late follower of the Mogul build, but enjoyed reading it so far. An interesting and thought provoking exercise well executed.
I'm fortunate in also having a homemade RSU, Unimat3, GW riveter, printers, ultrasonic etc., and would confidently tackle this kit if 7mm GWR was my thing. But my over-riding feeling as I reach the latest instalment is what a drama to build a 'kit'. I'm sure any number of prospective 7mm neophytes have fled in terror before this point. You'd have to be a particularly perverse masochist to embark on it.
'Don't attempt the kit unless you could confidently scratchbuild the model' seems to apply here?
I'm fortunate in also having a homemade RSU, Unimat3, GW riveter, printers, ultrasonic etc., and would confidently tackle this kit if 7mm GWR was my thing. But my over-riding feeling as I reach the latest instalment is what a drama to build a 'kit'. I'm sure any number of prospective 7mm neophytes have fled in terror before this point. You'd have to be a particularly perverse masochist to embark on it.
'Don't attempt the kit unless you could confidently scratchbuild the model' seems to apply here?
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Lawrence,
I think that’s a bit harsh, but I do see where you’re coming from. To be fair, a couple of minor improvements would have made all the difference. A clear fold line at the back of the footplate, and better instructions for forming the firebox.
My dear departed pal, John bought an Ace kit, I don’t recall what, but it had two left hand sets of everything, and no right hand bits. it’s not like that. It’s a very solid, old fashioned (but CAD designed) kit made out of proper metal, none of your flimsy 0.2mm half etches here!
I have another of Warren’s kits to build, a large prairie, I’m not looking forward to forming a half-gazillion rivets, but otherwise, it’ll be great. My 52xx is featured on Warren’s website, I was very pleased with that when I built it some twenty years back.
if I could, I’d build Martin Finney kits for everything. Everything in a Finney kit fits (I imagine the F7 kits have not deviated from this) and I have to say, much better than Mitchell kits, in my experience. But not everything I want is available from that stable.
And a bit of a touch between the brakes and the cylinders, well, it’s hardly a drama!
I think Warren did a couple of Great Northern kits if that’s your bag?
best
Simon
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Lawrence Boul
Active Member
I built a 4mm Finney A4 20+ years ago, in P4. Not that I had a use for it, but a) I rather like them and b) I was embarking on my own etch kit design and wanted to pinch ideas. I still haven't fully completed 'Dominion of New Zealand' as it's awaiting fitting of lining and plates. I even got permission from dept of internal affairs to reproduce the cab side crest (which they thoughtfully provided). It was a joy to put together.
My comments were not so much about the kit quality, as the tools, skill and perseverance needed to complete it (which is not exactly the same). Somebody versed in the art just nods knowingly, but somebody looking for a new hobby possibly would not be encouraged.
These days I only build my own kits on the whole. Mainly as I'm the only one who makes kits for the things that I want. Any kit is a compromise. The advantage of building your own is that the compromises of the designer and builder match perfectly, so no rework is ever required (well not due to the specification at least).
This is an NZR Wa class c.1940 in Sn3.5. 16.5mm gauge. All ns/brass/cast bronze, in 'works' grey. Split frame, metal wheels. Photo lit with an LED array, hence some odd shadows. Still needs the glazing, weather shields and one or two tidy ups here. The backhead is a 3D print, though not yet fitted here. It's fragile, but pretty safe tucked in the cab.
My comments were not so much about the kit quality, as the tools, skill and perseverance needed to complete it (which is not exactly the same). Somebody versed in the art just nods knowingly, but somebody looking for a new hobby possibly would not be encouraged.
These days I only build my own kits on the whole. Mainly as I'm the only one who makes kits for the things that I want. Any kit is a compromise. The advantage of building your own is that the compromises of the designer and builder match perfectly, so no rework is ever required (well not due to the specification at least).
This is an NZR Wa class c.1940 in Sn3.5. 16.5mm gauge. All ns/brass/cast bronze, in 'works' grey. Split frame, metal wheels. Photo lit with an LED array, hence some odd shadows. Still needs the glazing, weather shields and one or two tidy ups here. The backhead is a 3D print, though not yet fitted here. It's fragile, but pretty safe tucked in the cab.
Lawrence Boul
Active Member
Thanks Simon. Maybe... I've got a bit distracted here as I was told there were a couple of comments on my kits. I've got writing responsibilities elsewhere, so it's unlikely I'll post much detail. I'll probably just chip in when I think I can add something, but I don't want to hijack threads that's for sure.
I'll start a thread anyway.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I agree with Simon, please tell us how you get from an idea to what we see in that last photo.
Rgds, Graham
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Lawrence,
If you only build kits designed by yourself is that not just scratchbuilding?
Ian.
Lawrence Boul
Active Member
It is, but the actual build process is temporally offset, so it feels like kit building. So offset, that I need to read the instructions sometimes
SimonD……..now if you were looking for an update to an emco 5 massively over tooled. Not used since overhaul( new lead screw fitted), every accessory known to emco I know where one is available……..currently used by spiders as an adventure play ground……..I may be able to help……..just a thought………….
Bigj
Bigj
Seconded!
Lawrence Boul
Active Member
Just so you know.... I'm pinching this idea for jigging frames and rodsSo, rods assembled, jig set. I didn’t leave quite enough clearance vertically to be able to have the rods on the spigots, whilst the hornguides are fitted to the guide blocks, but I could assemble them on both sides before tightening the M5 nuts & T-bolts which clamp the guide blocks on the extrusion. Should have printed them about 5mm taller.
I have just popped the rod on this side to double check that nothing has moved.
View attachment 257582
All in order
The frames were clamped together and I opened out the slots until they just fit snugly over the hornguides.
View attachment 257584
yup, as a bug in a rug.
Frames polished with emery cloth, joints fluxed, short lengths of 0.7mm flux-cored solder on each horn leg. Break out the RSU…
View attachment 257586
Home made back when Maplins still traded, probably 15 years back, but maybe more. Bought a “transformer kit” which comprised a set of E & I cores, a pre-wound primary and a plastic former on which to wind the secondary. The secondary is made from 3mm varnished copper wire and was calculated to give about 4 V on the highest range. It’s certainly only a few turns. It has some “grunt”. I operate the button with my big toe.
View attachment 257587
So far, so good. The jig has survived with the plastic parts intact, and the hornguides are attached to the left hand frame.
View attachment 257588
however…
View attachment 257589
this should be easily fixed. Wait for the next exciting installment!
simond
Western Thunderer
thanks, I hope it works as well for you as it did for me,Just so you know.... I'm pinching this idea for jigging frames and rods
the 3D model should be able to be downloaded here. https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/resources/hornguide-jig.33/
Cheers
Simon
Lawrence Boul
Active Member
I'm sure it will. My hornguide needs will be different, but no problem to draw something up now I have the idea. The extrusion will be here on Monday.