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Celticwardog
Guest
Obviously then the layout itself, well a small part of it anyway (the High rocks end):
4mm P4 Southern Region 3rd rail, 1975 - 1980
- Thread starter Dan Randall
- Start date
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Celticwardog
Guest
Well thats it for now....hope you all like despite its Un-Westerness lol
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Celticwardog
Guest
Thanks very much Richard, weathering stock I am fairly new at but each comes out better than the last. I notice that you were involved in the conversation that bought me here so thanks for that too.
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Celticwardog
Guest
Hi Steve and thanks.
That's hard to answer as the building was complete way before the switch farm and surrounds were done. The builder I know draws the stuff on CAD (2D only) and prints it on self-adhesive paper, sticks that on sheets on plasticard and cuts it out, this is a massive timesaver as you will know it all fit together - kind of a DIY kit.
The windows and doors are also drawn on CAD so they can be sent off and turned into an etch (brass). The switch farm concrete bits is just plastic square rods (evergreen) but the things that hold the insulators (sommefeldt - used for OHLE) are also an etch. the transformer is plasticard scratchbuild - I forgot the close up.
Its then all thrown at me to paint, thats the quick bit lol. Its plonked on a seperate base thats designed to fit into the layout, then the scenic, weedy, fency bits got done. also made it transportable as it was entered into the structures section of Scaleforum 2013 (no it didn't win before you ask...boooooo, fix!
)
That's hard to answer as the building was complete way before the switch farm and surrounds were done. The builder I know draws the stuff on CAD (2D only) and prints it on self-adhesive paper, sticks that on sheets on plasticard and cuts it out, this is a massive timesaver as you will know it all fit together - kind of a DIY kit.
The windows and doors are also drawn on CAD so they can be sent off and turned into an etch (brass). The switch farm concrete bits is just plastic square rods (evergreen) but the things that hold the insulators (sommefeldt - used for OHLE) are also an etch. the transformer is plasticard scratchbuild - I forgot the close up.
Its then all thrown at me to paint, thats the quick bit lol. Its plonked on a seperate base thats designed to fit into the layout, then the scenic, weedy, fency bits got done. also made it transportable as it was entered into the structures section of Scaleforum 2013 (no it didn't win before you ask...boooooo, fix!
)
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Wow the painting and weathering on this is superb.
How did you get those results?
Rob
How did you get those results?
Rob
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Celticwardog
Guest
Thanks Rob & Mike. On what part are you referring to Rob, the transformer?
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Yes mate.
Rob
Rob
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Celticwardog
Guest
Right, gotcha. Erm...magic, evil magic.
Seriously though sprayed Halfords primer grey. Its then drybrushed in a succession of lighter greys BUT as you will notice it has many flat parts with no relief. Standard drybrushing DOES NOT work on areas like this, it will just look streaky and crap. Rather than swiping the dry brush side to side it is kind of stabbed or stippled, its what creates that patina and it also creates light texture.
When dry (8 hoursish as I prefer enamels for drybrushing) a thin enamel black wash is applied. It automatically picks up the light texture. A brush moistened with spirit is then flapped about a bit to take some of it off.
The rust is model mates rust effect applied in strategic areas and blended out a bit, with water this time.
BTW the method is the same to do most types on concrete but on a base colour of Humbrol enamel 84 with grey added, using 84 plus white for the drybrushing, and adding green to the black wash. Also works with base of Humbrol acrylic 93, (93 plus acrylic white for drybrush) if you look at the pic the trunking is that...just to add some variation as there is much concrete and didn't want it all looking the same.
As I say....evil magic
Seriously though sprayed Halfords primer grey. Its then drybrushed in a succession of lighter greys BUT as you will notice it has many flat parts with no relief. Standard drybrushing DOES NOT work on areas like this, it will just look streaky and crap. Rather than swiping the dry brush side to side it is kind of stabbed or stippled, its what creates that patina and it also creates light texture.
When dry (8 hoursish as I prefer enamels for drybrushing) a thin enamel black wash is applied. It automatically picks up the light texture. A brush moistened with spirit is then flapped about a bit to take some of it off.
The rust is model mates rust effect applied in strategic areas and blended out a bit, with water this time.
BTW the method is the same to do most types on concrete but on a base colour of Humbrol enamel 84 with grey added, using 84 plus white for the drybrushing, and adding green to the black wash. Also works with base of Humbrol acrylic 93, (93 plus acrylic white for drybrush) if you look at the pic the trunking is that...just to add some variation as there is much concrete and didn't want it all looking the same.
As I say....evil magic
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Thankyou for the description on the weathering. Very helpful. And once again absolutely fantastic weathering. Top drawer.
Rob
Rob
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Celticwardog
Guest
No problem and thanks
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Celticwardog
Guest
Figures today, courtesy of Dart. Though this kind of thing is my background one of my least favourite jobs, failing eyesight? The new collections (not sure what what the collective terms would be?):
An inefficiency of BR Staff:
A c%&!titude of chavs:
A bovva of mods:
An inefficiency of BR Staff:
A c%&!titude of chavs:
A bovva of mods:
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Brilliant weathering, not over the top just subtle ,really like that Thumper, just how I remember them when I lived in Reading although I think they were 205s best sounding units ever!
Warren
Warren
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Celticwardog
Guest
Thanks Warren, it is fitted with sound so hopefully its a faithful reproduction.
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Celticwardog
Guest
Sprayed the 2-Bil BR blue (yellow had already been done) last night, think the paint was a little thick as its left a slightly imperfect finish but with weathering it will be ok I think, it is "getting on a bit" for our timeline. It's another beast I think is ugly [lol] . I think its the riveted panels and its inelegant "face" I don't like. Also here is a picture of our VEP with its corrected face, made as a casting with a brass etch. No idea if this is correct, not sure what the beef was with the original but everyone in the know seemed to think it wasn't right. This has had its yellow end and base grey, needs another mask for the blue. Last pic shows me nearing the end of my Dart castings peeps:
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Superb figure painting there. I struggle with that level of finish with 7mm figures.
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Celticwardog
Guest
Thanks Heather, helps that Dart figures have extremely crisp detail. Though my eyesight isn't what it was things like that are my background, Warhammer and Dungeons and Dragons back in the day (showing my age AND uber-nerdyness!).
Tips - the finest brushes you can find for the detail (pro-arte my choice), thinned down paint is easier to paint fine detail (generally use enamels but acrylics for these for speed of drying), good light and I use off the peg reading glasses - look a bit of a tit in them but they help. Washes are applied to amplify shadow with a darker shade of the thing in question but thinned down massively with alcohol - seems to work better than water for acrylics and then drybrushed with the same base colour again, then more lightly with the colour with a touch of white to highlight areas.
I would love to do 7mm figures, could do so much more with them. I have seen your pics though and they look pretty fine to me!
Tips - the finest brushes you can find for the detail (pro-arte my choice), thinned down paint is easier to paint fine detail (generally use enamels but acrylics for these for speed of drying), good light and I use off the peg reading glasses - look a bit of a tit in them but they help. Washes are applied to amplify shadow with a darker shade of the thing in question but thinned down massively with alcohol - seems to work better than water for acrylics and then drybrushed with the same base colour again, then more lightly with the colour with a touch of white to highlight areas.
I would love to do 7mm figures, could do so much more with them. I have seen your pics though and they look pretty fine to me!
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Celticwardog
Guest
Bit of a brainwave last night (don't get them that often). I have ordered the Walthers Art Deco fire station cos I likes it, but going to covert it into a 1930s bus depot. The attached pics are for a Merseyside station that was built for a layout that will not be started on for quite some time, if ever. So......I am going to covert this into a bus station!
