SteveB
Western Thunderer
Hi Richard
Perhaps you should consider converting to S7, there will then be plenty of room between the frames.
Regards
Steve
Hi Richard
Perhaps you should consider converting to S7, there will then be plenty of room between the frames.
Regards
Steve
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Hi Richard
Perhaps you should consider converting to S7, there will then be plenty of room between the frames.
Regards
Steve
I'm too far down the f/s route Steve! Even so, I don't think I have the ability to do the work necessary for S7ing my stock and track.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
The rollers proved their worth in rolling the smoke box and wrapper. The internal section is an open elliptical circle, in that the ends are formed of a tighter radius. Most of this will be hidden in the tanks.
The smokebox was a delight to build and really well thought out. It will be fixed in place later in the build.
On the other hand, the etch for the rear splasher holes had not been adjusted for the 64/7400 smaller diameter wheels, so the resulting gaps in the cab floor were filled with scrap etch. The splashers have been dressed to remove the joint line between the top and sides .
The smokebox was a delight to build and really well thought out. It will be fixed in place later in the build.
On the other hand, the etch for the rear splasher holes had not been adjusted for the 64/7400 smaller diameter wheels, so the resulting gaps in the cab floor were filled with scrap etch. The splashers have been dressed to remove the joint line between the top and sides .
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
The top coal doors as supplied are a little bare, also the fixing hole for a handle is too high. I annealed a piece of 0.8 wire, flattened the end and drilled 0.5. I made a double set in the handle and soldered it on with 0.5 wire through a new hole. The locking bars are 0.5 wire. It's not perfect, but gives a little added detail to the doors.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I got the window coal bars made up and fitted, and got the first of the cab overlays on. Dave supplied a tool for bending the coal bars to shape them and a spacer to assist with soldering them in. Then all the bars are filed nice and flush inside the cab.
I popped the cab on to make sure all is square and the tabs all fit as I had to cut 5 slots which hadn't etched, but all is ok. I decided to fit the screw reverser now as it's easier to clean up.
I popped the cab on to make sure all is square and the tabs all fit as I had to cut 5 slots which hadn't etched, but all is ok. I decided to fit the screw reverser now as it's easier to clean up.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Help needed please!!!!
Construction has almost ground to a halt. I can't locate a photo or drawing of the location for the front sanding operating lever in the cab. I'm sure it must be adjacent to the rear splasher, but would feel happier with confirmation. I'm told the information may be in GW Journal issues 42-43.
If anyone can help, I would be most grateful.
Richard.
Construction has almost ground to a halt. I can't locate a photo or drawing of the location for the front sanding operating lever in the cab. I'm sure it must be adjacent to the rear splasher, but would feel happier with confirmation. I'm told the information may be in GW Journal issues 42-43.
If anyone can help, I would be most grateful.
Richard.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Having discovered the 74xx had a reversing lever rather than a screw reverser, the offending item has been removed and my reversing lever will be landing soon. In the mean time, I thought I may as well tackle the bunker. I have to say, Dave has excelled with the bunker corner castings. They are superb and fit perfectly! The process is very straightforward:
Fit the bottom plinths. Using the back plate as a guide fit the corner posts. Solder in the back plate. Shape and wrap the decorative outer skin. I thought I would show the process prior to finally soldering. The rear buffer beam is just pushed in place to help keep everything square prior to soldering.
Fit the bottom plinths. Using the back plate as a guide fit the corner posts. Solder in the back plate. Shape and wrap the decorative outer skin. I thought I would show the process prior to finally soldering. The rear buffer beam is just pushed in place to help keep everything square prior to soldering.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I received two packages today....one with replacement balance weights (thanks Mark) and the other with the reversing lever from Warren Shepard.
The overlays are soldered on. I then filled the joints with 70 degree solder and dressed back. There are a couple of minor pinholes which I will fill with cellulose stopper once all the soldering is complete.
Now to get the reversing lever in
The overlays are soldered on. I then filled the joints with 70 degree solder and dressed back. There are a couple of minor pinholes which I will fill with cellulose stopper once all the soldering is complete.
Now to get the reversing lever in
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LaScala
Member
Those bunker corners are excellent. Much easier than the JLTRT castings (that are triangular) that caused a few issues for Heather Kay and myself with 57xx. Sandy Harper has just finished the corners on his JLTRT 57xx over on RMWeb
Light years ahead of the all sheet metal old school option favoured by Warren Shephard for his 74xx. This drove me a bit crazy and depends on solder being shaped.
Light years ahead of the all sheet metal old school option favoured by Warren Shephard for his 74xx. This drove me a bit crazy and depends on solder being shaped.
I received two packages today....one with replacement balance weights (thanks Mark) and the other with the reversing lever from Warren Shepard.
The overlays are soldered on. I then filled the joints with 70 degree solder and dressed back. There are a couple of minor pinholes which I will fill with cellulose stopper once all the soldering is complete.
Now to get the reversing lever in
View attachment 64868
View attachment 64869
View attachment 64870[/QU
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I have seen kits where the corners are made from fingers with solder caked in and dressed back. It must be unbearably laborious! The fit and finish of Daves castings is exemplary!
Warren's service was excellent! I phoned to order the reversing leaver and it arrived the next morning, I hadn't even paid by then! The casting is really nice and is happily residing in the cab Thanks for the heads up!!
Warren's service was excellent! I phoned to order the reversing leaver and it arrived the next morning, I hadn't even paid by then! The casting is really nice and is happily residing in the cab
Thanks for the heads up!!
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Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Things are moving along nicely, and I thought I would pop the tanks on for a trial fit. They went straight on without any fuss. Still need to drill out the multitude of holes for all the fittings and handrail knobs.
The cab outer skin also went straight on. The only modification was to take the radius off the rear cab to bunker joint. Next, the cab opening will be filed to shape and I'll get all the handrails on.
The cab outer skin also went straight on. The only modification was to take the radius off the rear cab to bunker joint. Next, the cab opening will be filed to shape and I'll get all the handrails on.
adrian
Flying Squad
Looking good - but do my eyes deceive me are the tanks a white-metal casting? What do they attach to then - is there some sort etched framework underneath?
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian.
Your eyes are not deceiving you, the tank sides are indeed very fine whitemetal castings. And yes, they are supported on a slender frame. I'm hoping there will still be plenty of access inside for a decoder and speaker once I have the bottom of the boiler in place.
Your eyes are not deceiving you, the tank sides are indeed very fine whitemetal castings. And yes, they are supported on a slender frame. I'm hoping there will still be plenty of access inside for a decoder and speaker once I have the bottom of the boiler in place.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
After being advised 'over there' that the bunker lifting ring bolts were in the wrong position, I removed and replaced them in front of the vertical row of rivets I got most of the bunker detailing done at the same time. The top lamp iron will go on once I have re-done the corners which melted when I forgot I had left it in front of a fan heater for some time :-(
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
One of the things I like about MOK kits, is the way the steps go together. They are so easy to build and look the part...also thy are very strong with correct supports at the rear.
Also, Dave has designed the pipe hanger with a pair of etched holes through which a fine strip of nickel silver is passed, pulled tight and soldered at the rear. This makes a very neat and strong fixing for the vacuum and steam pipes.
Also, Dave has designed the pipe hanger with a pair of etched holes through which a fine strip of nickel silver is passed, pulled tight and soldered at the rear. This makes a very neat and strong fixing for the vacuum and steam pipes.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I wanted to ensure the chassis and tank balance pipe will fit prior to soldering on the tanks. The chassis is a VERY tight fit!
The rubber band is a precaution as I managed to drop one tank to the floor when lifting the loco and despite trying a repair, I had to buy a replacement set.
All the tank top furniture is soldered with 100 degree solder to save having to tin the brass components.
Anyone contemplating building one of these should make certain the tails from the front sandboxes are cut flush to the underside of the footplate otherwise the chassis won't sit flush, and I can assure you, they are a pig to file later!!f
The rubber band is a precaution as I managed to drop one tank to the floor when lifting the loco and despite trying a repair, I had to buy a replacement set.
All the tank top furniture is soldered with 100 degree solder to save having to tin the brass components.
Anyone contemplating building one of these should make certain the tails from the front sandboxes are cut flush to the underside of the footplate otherwise the chassis won't sit flush, and I can assure you, they are a pig to file later!!f
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I have been slowly chipping away, and 7418 is really starting to look like a nice little loco
The tank top cover came up about 0.25mm too short of the smokebox front plate. probably my fault..... I soldered a strip of 0.5mm N/S to the rear top of the smokebox, and filed it back until the plate fitted nicely.
The chimney etc were soldered on using my mini gas torch, and I will crack on with all the pipework and bits and bobs over the next couple of days.
I rolled and temporarily fitted the roof. Two are supplied, both are incorrect for the 74xx, in that the roof should be flush front and rear with the cab, so a little filing to the rear will be necessary.
The tank top plate can't be properly soldered with the boiler in place, but the boiler won't go in with the top plate in place, so I dropped the boiler in and it rattled around while I soldered the top plate from underneath. The boiler has a tab which slots in to the rear of the smokebox, so only required soldering at the firebox throat plate. The tanks still need cleaning up around the plate straps and the lifting rings are made but not yet on. I hate fitting handrails, especially around the top of the smoke box door, but obviously, I can't put it off much longer
The tank top cover came up about 0.25mm too short of the smokebox front plate. probably my fault..... I soldered a strip of 0.5mm N/S to the rear top of the smokebox, and filed it back until the plate fitted nicely.
The chimney etc were soldered on using my mini gas torch, and I will crack on with all the pipework and bits and bobs over the next couple of days.
I rolled and temporarily fitted the roof. Two are supplied, both are incorrect for the 74xx, in that the roof should be flush front and rear with the cab, so a little filing to the rear will be necessary.
The tank top plate can't be properly soldered with the boiler in place, but the boiler won't go in with the top plate in place, so I dropped the boiler in and it rattled around while I soldered the top plate from underneath. The boiler has a tab which slots in to the rear of the smokebox, so only required soldering at the firebox throat plate. The tanks still need cleaning up around the plate straps and the lifting rings are made but not yet on. I hate fitting handrails, especially around the top of the smoke box door, but obviously, I can't put it off much longer