Mr Grumpy

adrian

Flying Squad
Hi Adrian,
Unfortunately my pot of solder cream resembles a silver rock! I didn't ever get on with it and it's dried out.
I will report back after using my larger iron.
I now use exclusively the Carrs solder cream, 138 Deg. C. - 'Lead Free' Solder Cream - Detailed work (C1017) - Carr's. Whilst it may seem expensive it's cheaper than an RSU and it does last an awfully long time.

I tried some solder paste from ebay that was recommended SMD Easy Print Solder Paste SN62% - Pb36% - Ag2% - 8g | eBay. A cheaper option but it didn't seem as good, the alloy composition is the same as the Carrs stuff but that too seemed to dry out very quickly, so perhaps the Carrs cream is using a better suspension medium because a year on and it's still creamy(!) down to the end of the tube.
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Adrian
Looking at the overlay, would you have to run paste the whole length of each stanchion, or does a tiny blob spread the whole length?
Thanks.
 

Dave Bowden

Western Thunderer
Instead of using an soldering iron for overlays have you thought of using a cook's torch? I'm currently building an AA19 in G1 and nearly all of it I've done using the torch. I shall be adding more photos in the 1/32 section shortly.

Dave
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Adrian
Looking at the overlay, would you have to run paste the whole length of each stanchion, or does a tiny blob spread the whole length?
Thanks.
A tiny blob won't run the whole length, I'd just put a dab of cream every 8-10 mm. The solder will spread out a bit and will follow the heat to a certain extent along the joint. It's one of those things that just needs a bit of practice to judge the right amount. I'm trying to write up a few notes on soldering as a counter point to some articles on the web about RSUs so I'll see if I can sort out a couple of photos to illustrate how I would do it.
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian
I did crack on and fit the overlay to the other side using the 100w iron. I did tin the overlay again and taped the whole lot down on to glass sheet.
This time it went really well with only one leg needing a tiny drop of solder.
I will give the paste a go, but will practice on some scrap etch first :)
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I didn't find this worked too well for me, perhaps I didn't tin enough or the heat wasn't transferring through (450 degrees and 50W) Also, the instructions warn from adding too much heat to the ends of the sides.

I use a small gas torch (the type used in kitchens for caramelising the sugar on crème brûlée) for this type of work. The sheets are held together with bulldog clips and I apply the heat from the centre outwards.
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I really should make more use of my micro torch. In my past life I was a gas engineer, and used a blowtorch all the time soldering pipework
 
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Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,

This is probably a daft question..... but.... do you think your Micro torch would be hot enough to melt lead?

I have some castings I need to make :(

Cheers
Lee
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Definitely.... but wear a really good respirator as used when spraying paint as the fumes will not do you any good.
Breath in too much and you could put on weight :D
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Due to Christmas preparations etc, modelling has become a little sporadic! I have the stanchions fitted to both sides and made up the veranda end. Due to space limitations behind the buffers and their springing technique, they have to be fitted now, so soldering will have to be undertaken carefully....
The coupling hook is soldered in to place as per instructions, rather than sprung

post-19951-0-00223500-1482129194.jpg

The sides of the van are slowly coming along too

post-19951-0-88778100-1482135270_thumb.jpg

The stanchions have the handrail brackets pre attached. These can be removed and more prototypical brackets used instead.


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Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I found fitting the window cills particularly fiddly, and needed a couple of goes to get them on. I lost two in to the nether regions of the workshop floor.....
Unfortunately, I accidentally caught the stanchion overlay and twisted the right hand stanchion. I have had a few goes at flattening it, and I think this is the best I can do.

Hope you have a lovely christmas, and Santa has brought you the goodies you have asked for :drool:

Screen Shot 2016-12-24 at 19.17.08.png
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Progress is inching along slowly, but at last I have soldered the body together. I managed to de-solder part of the veranda end overlay, which got bent while removing some tape. (A reoccurring problem for me!)
I have flattened and soldered it back in place, but still need to do a clean up on the veranda side. The cabin front isn't fixed yet, I just wanted to convince myself it would fit :)
I have made up the 16 handrail brackets and will fit once my order for 0.6mm wire arrives. In the meantime I'm hoping to get the sanding gear and bench in soon(ish)
IMG_5261.jpg
IMG_5262.jpg
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Looks superb Richard having built one I know how fiddly they are but well worth the effort. Who needs castings ?
Thanks for the recommendation Mark:thumbs:
I don't think it's going to turn out as nice as yours, but it is a lovely kit to build. It has stretched me a bit in places, but I guess that's how one tries to improve :)
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Progress is inching along slowly, but at last I have soldered the body together. I managed to de-solder part of the veranda end overlay, which got bent while removing some tape. (A reoccurring problem for me!)

The difference between man and apes is....we learn from our mistakes...quicker than they do;)

Stop putting the dratted tape on! Simples!

Still, mistakes or not, it's cracking along now and some very neat detailed work coming to the fore. It's nice to see someone develop and evolve as they progress.

Keep up the good work :thumbs:

MD
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
That's some nice detailing. Is it all included in the kit or is it something extra you've added?
Hi Adrian,
I haven't added any extras to this kit except N/S wire. It's the first kit I have made that I haven't felt the need. I think the only component missing is the chimney, but that may just be an oversight when the kit was packed.
I believe there are two different kits available, one for a fully planked van and the one I have with the plated veranda. The kit further caters for planked or sheeted sides and rear end, 4 wheels or 6, high windows or low, opening/non opening variety single or double pane.
The thought that has gone in to the design of this kit is incredible.
I have found the overlays, and more importantly keeping them in place a bit of a challenge, and they are incredibly fragile, but this comes down to my learning curve! I couldn't cope with 2mm modelling :)
I'm mumbling a few curses as I fit the handrail brackets (more choice here...original or later design of handrail and brackets)
I'm considering buying another so that I can use what I have learned and turn out a really stunning van.
 
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