Mr Grumpy

[Mr Grumpy]

The cab desks fit perfectly, as do the drivers. This is just a trial fit prior to glazing. The transfers above the connecting doors are by Pugsley. I had bought a set of his cab transfers for my 47 but misplaced them. On a forced tidy up of the work shop they turned up, so not such a waste of time as I had thought

 

[Mr Grumpy]

The glazing isn't going in without a fight! I managed to chip the drivers window frames on both cabs while clearing the grove for the glazing material. On the plus side, I have managed to fit one pane in to the second mans side.
The side windows will sit proud of the cab wall at the bottom, making the desks a bit of a squeeze to slot in to place.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I began the day by asking Laurie to send me virtually a replacement kit.
I had fixed the cabs, but I hadn't got them right. This was my fault and not a fault with the kit.
My wife felt I was over reacting as usual, and felt I should try to rectify my mistake.
This super glue really does grip the resin, but a lot of gentle persuasion, tea, more persuasion, knifing putty, a couple of strips of styrene and 8 hours later and I think I'm there! Just a couple of minor gaps to fill, and the body should be ready for its top coat of primer
I'm so pleased I had a go, the satisfaction of seeing it looking as it should is terrific!

 

[Healey Mills]

Richard,

That looks a top job. I think the JLTRT kits need quite a bit of work at the cab joins but you have made it look so easy.... despite the 8 hours. Certainly 8 hours well spent and a model to be proud of!!

Keep up with the good work. The loco is looking superb

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Richard,

That looks a top job. I think the JLTRT kits need quite a bit of work at the cab joins but you have made it look so easy.... despite the 8 hours. Certainly 8 hours well spent and a model to be proud of!!

Keep up with the good work. The loco is looking superb

Cheers
Lee

Thanks Lee,
It came within inches (centimetres??) of residing in the bin on a couple of occasions!
I don't think I will be building a snow plough though

 

[Healey Mills]

Thanks Lee,
It came within inches (centimetres??) of residing in the bin on a couple of occasions!
I don't think I will be building a snow plough though

Well, I know just what you mean. But sometimes the more difficult the project... the better the result. At least for the individual building the loco!!

You're doing a sterling job, I'd hate for this to get the better of you. Keep going, you have a superb loco there and I'm sure all those that watch your thread are right behind you wishing this to go well.... with a little elbow grease from yourself

The ZZA is... well.... interesting!!

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I got the buffers fettled and in to primer today.
I used a 4mm drill to deepen the pocket in the stocks as they were not deep enough to allow the buffer to fully retract. I also took about a 1/3 off the length of the buffer springs to soften them up a little.
As with the Hymek buffers, the oval heads will rotate, the springs didn't keep them level as the instructions suggest even with the springs full length.
I modified them the same as I did for my Hymek by cutting a slot in the rear of the stock and drilling 0.5mm through the buffer shank. A piece of 0.5mm wire is then inserted, with one end flattened in a pair of pliers. The other end is bent over in to the slot and will not fall out.
I have added a photo to show the technique I use to ensure the shank hole lines up with the slot.
I'm hoping to have the chassis up and running by the weekend

 

[OzzyO]

Is this when you find out that you have the cabs at the wrong ends, or the sides on the wrong side or the roof on upside down.

I must go now as the fellows with the coat with the long sleeves have turned up.

OzzyO.

PS. a nice build.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Is this when you find out that you have the cabs at the wrong ends, or the sides on the wrong side or the roof on upside down.

I must go now as the fellows with the coat with the long sleeves have turned up.

OzzyO.

PS. a nice build.

They took me years ago

Thankfully everything is where it should be, and I'm going to focus on getting the chassis up and running next before painting the body

Ps... If any one has a decent roof shot of a 22 with a nice sooty exhaust I would love to see it please!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Time bandits came out in force today, so all I have to show are the completed buffers, plus a close up of the 0.5mm wire in the slot to prevent buffer rotation. I also have the chassis sprayed so hopefully will get the locomotive up on its wheels tomorrow
I'm getting quite fond of this loco, it's a nice compact size and has a very distinctive. if archaic look.....even the buffer stocks look like flower pots

 

[Mr Grumpy]

In terms of spraying, rain stopped play today, but I thought I would pop the loco up on to its bogies.
I need to do a little work on the chassis, as the loco buffer centres from track are 26mm instead of 24.5mm. I'm not sure what can be done at present, as the bogie mount on the ABC motor bogie sits a tad higher than the trailing bogie mount. However, that end is 25.5mm from rail height

 

[mickoo]

Time bandits came out in force today, so all I have to show are the completed buffers, plus a close up of the 0.5mm wire in the slot to prevent buffer rotation. I also have the chassis sprayed so hopefully will get the locomotive up on its wheels tomorrow
I'm getting quite fond of this loco, it's a nice compact size and has a very distinctive. if archaic look.....even the buffer stocks look like flower pots
View attachment 58750
View attachment 58751

Time Bandits, long time since I've heard that phrase and they have been here in force the past few days.

Nice build, it's coming along nicely and I'm looking forward to putting my Heljan Warship kit together at some point.

MD

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Time Bandits, long time since I've heard that phrase and they have been here in force the past few days.

Nice build, it's coming along nicely and I'm looking forward to putting my kit Heljan Warship together at some point.

MD

Thanks!
What a great way to get a warship!
Like you said, you can choose/ design your own motor system and add your own etchings.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Crikey.....what a twit I am
Some un named person had dropped the body on the wrong way round, causing the chassis to resemble a banana....
With the body now in the correct position, the buffer centre height from rail head is 25.5mm at motor bogie end and 25mm at trailing bogie end. I'm going to have to insert a washer to lift the trailing end as the wheels are just touching the chassis floor.
This is the ABC motor bogie..

 

[Steph Dale]

Cool - you'll get the spring plank and driveshaft details in there now...!

Steph

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Cool - you'll get the spring plank and driveshaft details in there now...!

Steph

Hi Steph...
One step at a time! You introduced me to split axles and the 22s trailing bogie runs beautifuly!
I don't know if resin kits are really my thing, but I would like another 22. I will see how yours turns out

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Now Severnmill are taking orders after his move, I will be ordering the makers plates and numbers for my Hymek on Monday. JLTRT supply numbers but no plates with the kit.
The transfers are on, and it's really looking nice
I will be finishing this one almost ex-works. The 22 will be a tad dirty (filthy)

 

[Mr Grumpy]

While the weather is a little on the wet side, my spray booth (the garden) is out of action, so I thought I would get the 22s chassis wired up. The beauty of using the ABC motor bogie is that I can get away with using the ESU V4 decoder. The standard speaker is still attached to the decoder. But not got long! Cliff Williams 35mm speaker is sat on the chassis ready to be connected to the decoder.
I used this set up for my Hymek and the sound is very impressive
Not much room if one was using two motors and an XL decoder.

 

[Cliff Williams]

It is fairly easy on BoBos, the chip is mounted in the roof at No2 end leaving the floor for up to two speakers.
The handy thing about the XL in the roof is that the cab lighting loom is static and is not disturbed each time you separate the body.

You should hear the beasties with a 35mm round and a 40mm square ticking over making for a lovely deep full sound, if you catch my drift,

 

[Mr Grumpy]

You should hear the beasties with a 35mm round and a 40mm square ticking over making for a lovely deep full sound, if you catch my drift,

Is that set up doable with the ESU V4?