Mr Grumpy

Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
As you say... every cloud has a silver lining. How has the paint come off though???

I was looking at the drivers you use and notice there is one for the JLTRT 40... goodness knows how they fit in, unless the cab consoles are glued in situ. That opens up a right can of worms for the light wiring. Otherwise I'm stumped as to how these figures go in!!

Hope you manage to get the seat repaired easily.

Cheers
Lee
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
The company have a model of desk and the driver is made to measure.
The Hymek desk didn't need much work to get the lights in, I cut a small hole at floor level and brought all the wiring through there in all shrouded in shrink wrap. You can't see it from outside the cab :)
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy said:
The company have a model of desk and the driver is made to measure.
The Hymek desk didn't need much work to get the lights in, I cut a small hole at floor level and brought all the wiring through there in all shrouded in shrink wrap. You can't see it from outside the cab :)
Click to expand...

With the JLTRT 40 the consoles are fixed into the loco cab body... or at least that is how I have done them (and they are shown that way in the instructions). So if that is the case when lowering the body onto the chassis it will get stuck on the drivers hands/ feet. I guess at least the way the Hymek goes together you do not have this issue?

Perhaps I'm having a dumb moment and there is an easy way to do it, but sticking the cab console to the underframe then means the lighting wiring will get snagged.

Cheers
Lee
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
With the Hymek, the desks are glued in, then the sides glued to the cabs. The bulkheads are glued to the chassis, then the whole lot dropped in place. I couldn't do that due to the driver being in the way. So I glued in the bulkheads then SLID the cab/desk assy rear wards to attach to the bulkhead and chassis floor.
Had I glued everything prior to fitting to the floor, I don't know how I would have got round the fact that the body sides were too short!
I'm surprised there is so little space for the wiring, the Hymek doesn't have the space behind a long nose as on the 40?
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy said:
I'm surprised there is so little space for the wiring, the Hymek doesn't have the space behind a long nose as on the 40?
Click to expand...

There is lots of room for the wiring in the nose, but if I were to fix the consoles to the underframe then the wiring would get snagged if I remove body as the bulkheads (and hence the wiring looms) have to be fixed into the body..... oh dear. I'm probably not explaining this very well :(

The most important thing is that you have got your Hymek sorted and, bar the hiccup with the seat, you are well on your way to having a great looking loco. Will you be attempting another? :D
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Indeed I will!
I have a JLTRT class 22 waiting in the wings also an ABC motor bogie and modified chassis to fit same. Also Howes ESU V4 sound decoder. Not heard it yet, but hope it's better than their Hymek offering. It obviously won't be a recording of a class 22.... although I did see a class 22 engine fired up in a shed on YouTube :)
 
OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
The seat just looks like it has had a bit of ware on it and the padding is showing.

A nice looking build.

OzzyO.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I know I should, but being nickle silver, they will darken down a bit!
Wish you hadn't mentioned the couplings...I have now noticed a wonky buffer.....
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Richard,
Lovely job, I'd be interested to know what your thoughts are of the JLTRT kit now you've finished: The Heljan Hymek always looks well and I'd be interested how you feel they compare.
Steph
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Thanks Steph!
You may know I had a Heljan Hymek in blue with small warning panels.
I personally think (not trying to start a debate :)) it was and still is their best loco. It lacked detail around the bogies and cab bulkheads, but I felt the shape was excellent.
Where it fell down for me was the difficulty of fitting a decent sound set up. I remember some one milling the frame above the fuel tanks, but that was beyond me. I'm sure others have found an easier way!
With after market add ons from JLTRT they really do look excellent. As I said to Craig a while back, had mine been green, I may have kept it and found a way to get decent sound in.
Fundimentaly, I enjoy building anything. So I got immense pleasure from that aspect, and I feel it's a more personal (to me ) loco.
If I were to have to choose from scratch though, I would go for the JLTRT one.
I really like the white metal and nickel silver bogies, so nice and heavy, the cab bulkheads and desks are great, the fuel tank gauge is incorrect on one side though. There is some detail that isn't on the Heljan, but easily fitted.
However, I would have prefered an etched kit with resin cabs, but you can't have everything, and I imagine the top of the body would be a pain to form.
 
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