Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Im still on restricted modelling time, but have made a start detailing the front buffer beam. My Proxxon pillar drill has been a life saver, drilling the multitude of tiny junction boxes attributed to the auto trailer equipment.

It's strange that in the photos, the brake stretcher looks out of level, it is in fact perfectly level :)



While on restricted modelling time, I have been researching the Tetbury line. My 64xx that I have bought from MOK, will in fact be built as a 74xx, as there is plenty of photographic evidence of 74s running on the line. So, no auto gear to fit :)

Screen Shot 2016-05-31 at 20.05.22.png

Screen Shot 2016-05-31 at 20.05.04.png
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I got the vacuum and steam pipes fitted today. I ran them in copper wire and they both went on very easily. I really enjoyed it! I reluctantly decided not to wrap the steam pipe as I couldn't think of how I would keep the wrapping dry when giving the loco a good wash down.
MMP sell cast steam pipes, but I wasn't sure how they would cope with all the bends, and I think they were a tad short.
MarkJJ kindly sent me some nuts and bolts for the boiler strap. They are slightly too large, but look very effective.
I have all the conduit junction boxes drilled ready to fit but I am dithering on how the conduit should be represented. Looking at photos of the 14xx in service, some of the conduit runs look quite shabby. I shall probably go for something a little tidier though
:)
I'm hoping for some fine weather so the chassis can get sprayed and the pick ups installed. The decoder arrived last week and it will be nice to see the loco 'coming to life' :)
image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Armed with the relevant back head info, I made a start drilling out all the valves and cutting up some copper wire.

The manifold casting is quite intricate and very nicely cast, except that the coach steam heat valve pipe entry is incorrectly placed. (Sorry for the appalling photography) The red arrow shows the pipe entry as cast, the blue arrow shows where it needs to be....

Screen Shot 2016-06-10 at 17.07.54.png

So I cut it off, drilled a 0.5 hole in to the rear of the valve and through the remaining support, pinned and soldered with 227 degree solder for strength in the correct position. Some one will undoubtedly tell me the original position was ok, but from the majority of photos, I don't think it was the normal position.
IMG_4096.JPG


Then I made a start soldering the different sized 'pipe work' in to place. Still a lot to do. I want to fit the washout plugs in the back head followed by the door lever, then spray the front and hopefully solder all the pieces on from the rear quickly without damaging the paint.
.....The clack valves are not soldered in yet.
Screen Shot 2016-06-10 at 17.44.38.png

Screen Shot 2016-06-10 at 17.44.51.png

Screen Shot 2016-06-10 at 17.44.22.png
I hope to complete the back head over the weekend :)
 
Last edited:

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
As the weather was fine, I got the back head painted, then soldered all the bits on. To be fair, I have left of a couple of minor pipes! The pipes to the gauges will be added after the cab is painted. The manifold and regulator are still to be painted, but I couldn't resist a quick try in the cab.....its a bit of a squeeze!
Screen Shot 2016-06-11 at 21.59.42.png

Screen Shot 2016-06-11 at 21.34.50.png


Screen Shot 2016-06-11 at 21.35.00.png

Its time to get the roof on, make up the CPL couplings then a good scrub down before painting :)
 
Last edited:

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I stripped the chassis and I'm glad to say my modification to the brakes and rigging worked a treat and it all came off without a fight :)
The chassis is now in etched primer and I'll paint it in a couple of days.
In the mean time, I have had a rummage through my kits and decided to build the JLTRT Hymek.
It's always been one of my favourite locos, especially in green.
The castings look to be excellent, with no flash to speak of. In fact it took
around 8 labourious hours to get the DJH 47 cabs to look as good as these...

image.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I got out while it was dry and got the first coat on. However, as always, thing didn't go strictly to plan. I forgot to mask the buffer beams, safety valves and whistles...oh and a fly decided the best place in the world to land was on the freshly painted tank side...:rant:

The masking tape on the roof is to allow me to solder the roof on once the cab is fitted out, then I will apply the top coat.
IMG_4918.jpeg
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
I got out while it was dry and got the first coat on. However, as always, thing didn't go strictly to plan. I forgot to mask the buffer beams, safety valves and whistles.

Easier to paint the buffer planks first and then mask them before spraying the black. Less masking that way!

Ian
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Cor blimey, you don't hang about do you???

Nice paint job!!!!

More haste less speed my friend!
I was so desperate to beat the weather, I forgot some obvious basics, culminating in un necessary school boy errors :oops:
However, it won't happen again!
The safety valves, whistles, ATC bell and handbrake are all back to brass :)

Ps. I checked out the glues you recommended and reckon by the time I have bought that lot, Laurie will be able to retire to the Bahamas :D
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Might be easier masking and spraying the red!
Red is a very poor colour to get to cover and I know from experience that more coats will be needed than you think, especially over black. If I have to paint buffer beams by hand I start with a coat of chocolate brown.
Ian.
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I happen to have some chocolate brown so once the primer has dried, I'll undercoat with that first. I'm just sitting here looking at the buffer beams and was in two minds as to stripping back the paint and using my air brush instead. Like you say, it's a lot of masking but may give a better finish.

Ok.....it's coming off......
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
The back head and gauges and glazing are fitted, so I got on with fitting the roof. I think of the whole kit, this single item has taken the most time and fettling. The edges of the roof were creating a ridge which spoilt the smooth curve from above the doorway. The only solution I could come up with was to run a good fillet of solder along the roof edge then dress it back. I got there in the end, and the time spent really was worth it :)
The buffer beams have been sprayed, along with the chassis which has had a basic first dose of weathering. I left the masking in the cab ready or the weathering session on the body once I have fitted the name plates and tank side transfers.
I hope to have the chassis up and running this week.
image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 

Brian Daniels

Western Thunderer
Just had a butchers at the cab detail and I can't see one of these in it. This is on 1450, did they all have one?

I suppose I ought to put all my steam and wagon details alongside the diesel ones on my Flickr site for you to have a look at sometime.1450 (112).jpg
 

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Thanks for looking Brian. A few photos came to light in the end, and the backhead is safely installed in the cab now :thumbs:
Just added a splash of gloss to the side tanks ready for the BR emblem.
....still waiting for the reamer and 12BA tap.....
 
Top