pete waterman
Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
...Im reliably informed they are Mashima 1833's.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
....And split axles!!
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
Is that centre axle split?
Compton castle
Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Yes,
All axles are split, and the bearings insulated from the frames. A really neat solution to dispensing with pick ups!
I'm already wondering if this can be achieved on my (fingers crossed) MOK 9f.
Back to my 47, all things going well, I should have her up and running early December. Also, I really should finish my thumper, there is probably less than a 1/2 day's work left. Trouble is once the spaceship lands......
adrian
Flying Squad
Just curious then - how are the bearings insulated from the frames then? They look to be soldered in from from the photos.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Adrian,
I'm sure @Steph Dale can explain better than me, but I believe in essence, the bearings are bonded to an insulated material and glued to the frames.
I'm sure @Steph Dale can explain better than me, but I believe in essence, the bearings are bonded to an insulated material and glued to the frames.
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Richard,
Sort of...
Adrian,
Washers of double-sided copper clad are soldered to the frames, using the bearings as a guide. The frame and common face of the copper clad are then drilled with a spot cutter or countersink. When the bearing is then fitted it's 'live' to the outer face of the copper clad, but the enlarged/countersunk hole on the frame side means that the bearing is 'dead' to the frames. I then run epoxy in to the enlarged holes to provide additional support to the bearings and run wire from the front face of the copper clad, which forms the pick-up.
Steph
Sort of...
Adrian,
Washers of double-sided copper clad are soldered to the frames, using the bearings as a guide. The frame and common face of the copper clad are then drilled with a spot cutter or countersink. When the bearing is then fitted it's 'live' to the outer face of the copper clad, but the enlarged/countersunk hole on the frame side means that the bearing is 'dead' to the frames. I then run epoxy in to the enlarged holes to provide additional support to the bearings and run wire from the front face of the copper clad, which forms the pick-up.
Steph
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
That is enough time... after all, you can do 90 with a '9'.
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
The gearbox is narrower than full-width and also offset to one side - the offset allows a split to go in adjacent to the gearbox.
Split axles I make myself; it's not as difficult as many people think. I covered the technique in a little detail on my website, have a look at these three pages and see what you think.:
Split axle pick-up in 0-gauge, Page 1
Split axle pick-up in 0-gauge, Page 2
Split axle pick-up in 0-gauge, Page 3
I now also have a technique that allows an epoxy-coated hardened steel pin provide the insulation (instead of the pultruded GRP rod method described on the third page), which is a very strong approach for high-duty axles.
Just for the record (ooh, guess who's showing off now!) the same approach can even produce an electrically split crank axle:
Crank axles for split axles | Western Thunder
And if you were to want a set of split axles made then feel free to drop me a PM.
Steph
adrian
Flying Squad
I believe he makes them himself
7mm - Steph's modern traction workbench | Page 2 | Western Thunder
I've used type 3 method and can confirm it's a simple method to do.
[edit : and he found the references quicker than I did!]
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Ooh, a Thumper - any pictures please?
Regards
Dan
The story behind the thumper....
I had followed Brian Daniels build prior to starting to build etched kits. Anyway, I got 3-4 wagons built to a reasonably good standard and got lulled in to a false sense of security as Brian's build seemed so effortless and took the plunge and bought a 2 car kit.
I believe Brian's is a 3 car 'Berkshire' unit, mine is a 2 car 'Hampshire' unit.
To be fair. The build went ok, and following Brian's lead I used JLTRT castings for the fittings.
Westdale door grab handles, speedos and curved cab door handles were used and Peter Harvey's engine room grille, which makes a heck of a difference!
I scratch built some pipe work, equipment boxes and toilet filler and waste pipes.
I still can't bring myself to make a start on the cast engine. Also some of the hand rails on th DMBS need touching in and glazing fitting.
The DTCOL needs painting and glazing.
Once complete, I may have to sell on to finance my 9f.
Decoder temporarily wired for running in. Still needs a sound decoder. I have a Cliff Williams speaker ready ...
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
You need to change your name - you should be very happy with the results of your Thumper build. 
One of these (in the same livery), is on my hit list too. Well done and thanks for the pictures.
Regards
Dan
One of these (in the same livery), is on my hit list too. Well done and thanks for the pictures.
Regards
Dan