Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Those photos are excellent!! I knew the round cover was for filling the water tanks, but never seen it done!
West Junction
Western Thunderer
Some photos at Oxford 1982
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Ozzy,
Not quite as easy as that my good man, some classes were built with roofs the same as the body side and that certainly includes the class 47, there may be others and I'll have a quick dig through my collection this evening and see if there are any others, but off the top of my head I don't there are.
Both the above are brand new I think as they still have the original radiator grills, this next one isn't but clearly shows the green roof and Sereck radiator grills which look grey but could just be the light angle reflecting off them.
In BR days they were blue or in later years what ever colour the TOC's decided but usually grey except 163 and 164 which had silver roofs when first painted for the Jubilee but reverted to light grey like all the other Stratford locos in due course.
Last edited:
West Junction
Western Thunderer
Another option taken at Oxford 1981 (Stratford loco?)
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Anyway, back to reality and this is the state of play for today...
Tad exasperated with the lack of adhesion of the primer (Halfords grey under the blue) to anything brass also apart from the louvres, nickel silver.
It's about to have a further scrub with Calgon then try again. The body work and roof panels have come up well though.
Tad exasperated with the lack of adhesion of the primer (Halfords grey under the blue) to anything brass also apart from the louvres, nickel silver.
It's about to have a further scrub with Calgon then try again. The body work and roof panels have come up well though.
Jinty
Western Thunderer
Hi Grumpy,
I had a similar problem with cellulose paint not adhering to a Sidelines coach I'd build. I'd used some Halfords ordinary primer, after that the celly mixed paint.
It started peeling and I was able to scratch it off in sheets!!
I then went to Halfords and bought some of their Upol Etch 8, and it did the job soundly.
Nice build so far, I do like my 47's.
Jinty
I had a similar problem with cellulose paint not adhering to a Sidelines coach I'd build. I'd used some Halfords ordinary primer, after that the celly mixed paint.
It started peeling and I was able to scratch it off in sheets!!
I then went to Halfords and bought some of their Upol Etch 8, and it did the job soundly.
Nice build so far, I do like my 47's.
Jinty
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I used the Halford's etching primer on the A3 of recent posting. It's not bomb proof but I've found it better for adhesion than the grey primer. Nevertheless, the tender paint stripped off when I removed the masking on one side and needed stripping and respraying.
You certainly need to de-tack any masking tape, IMHO, even when using this etching primer.
Brian
You certainly need to de-tack any masking tape, IMHO, even when using this etching primer.
Brian
Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Try Upol Acid8 etch spray, I use it on pretty much everything now.
Make sure you key the metal well too, I use a fibre pen or fine sand paper to get better adhesion.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281745067775
Make sure you key the metal well too, I use a fibre pen or fine sand paper to get better adhesion.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281745067775
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks guys.
I am de-tacking the masking tape as The stuff I bought from Halfords has a grip like gorilla tape!! It's just their cheap and cheerful £1.00 stuff, and Tamiya for fine edges. U-pol etch 8 will be in the armoury tomorrow!
This takes me back to the days of constantly re- spraying my Lotus Cortina back in the 70's!
I am de-tacking the masking tape as The stuff I bought from Halfords has a grip like gorilla tape!! It's just their cheap and cheerful £1.00 stuff, and Tamiya for fine edges. U-pol etch 8 will be in the armoury tomorrow!
This takes me back to the days of constantly re- spraying my Lotus Cortina back in the 70's!
Last edited:
Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Dip the whole thing in cellulose and start again is my best advice, if you have colour lift in patches it will spread.
My local auto body shop sells me lo tac tape at a fraction of the price of Tamiya stuff.
My local auto body shop sells me lo tac tape at a fraction of the price of Tamiya stuff.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Cliff,
I have used cellulose paint and my cellulose thinners don't touch the paint that has adhered properly. All I need on the brass is my finger nail or masking tape.
I have removed the rubbish and what is left has had a damn good seeing to !
If the etching primer lets me down, l found some paint stripper that actually works(Starchem)and the whole thing will be taking a bath in that!
I have used cellulose paint and my cellulose thinners don't touch the paint that has adhered properly. All I need on the brass is my finger nail or masking tape.
I have removed the rubbish and what is left has had a damn good seeing to !
If the etching primer lets me down, l found some paint stripper that actually works(Starchem)and the whole thing will be taking a bath in that!
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Sorry if it's already been mentioned, as I haven't read the whole thread, but have you thought about chemical blackening as a primer?
I haven't used it with celly, but it's great with other media I have used in the past, and prevents all the detail being lost under numerous coats of primer too..
JB.
I haven't used it with celly, but it's great with other media I have used in the past, and prevents all the detail being lost under numerous coats of primer too..
JB.