BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Respray? It looks great and any weathering will cover any blemishes you can see. For myself, I cant see anything but perfection. 
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks Phil,Respray? It looks great and any weathering will cover any blemishes you can see. For myself, I cant see anything but perfection.
Knowing what a perfectionist you are, that means a lot to me
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I have now turned my attention to my MOK 14xx.
I bought it to fill time until (hopefully) the 9f appears. The strange thing is, this pretty little loco has had a strange effect, and my diesels will all be looking for new homes, as I seem to have turned, literally over night to all things steam.....well BR WR!! So perhaps the Standard 4MT next, who knows.
This won't be such an in depth account, as I know it has been written up several times before. However, I am still very much in the learning seat, so any mistakes I make will be there for all to see!
As it is my first 0 gauge stem loco build, I will probably follow the instruction manual almost to the letter.
So far I have built the rear swinging axle box, firebox/ash pan and got the horn block guides made up.
I have the chassis parts cut and ready to go in the morning.
I bought it to fill time until (hopefully) the 9f appears. The strange thing is, this pretty little loco has had a strange effect, and my diesels will all be looking for new homes, as I seem to have turned, literally over night to all things steam.....well BR WR!! So perhaps the Standard 4MT next, who knows.
This won't be such an in depth account, as I know it has been written up several times before. However, I am still very much in the learning seat, so any mistakes I make will be there for all to see!
As it is my first 0 gauge stem loco build, I will probably follow the instruction manual almost to the letter.
So far I have built the rear swinging axle box, firebox/ash pan and got the horn block guides made up.
I have the chassis parts cut and ready to go in the morning.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Richard
When are you going to get some transfers on your 47, then a bit of weathering, don't over do it and remember that the glass should generally be very clean. Once you have done all that you will have a model to be proud of and not one to be sold.
Don't be seduced by the dark side, there is nothing wrong with a mix of steam and diesel, (or electric for that matter) the two can run together if you want them to, one isn't better than the other, they are both great.
Richard
When are you going to get some transfers on your 47, then a bit of weathering, don't over do it and remember that the glass should generally be very clean. Once you have done all that you will have a model to be proud of and not one to be sold.
Don't be seduced by the dark side, there is nothing wrong with a mix of steam and diesel, (or electric for that matter) the two can run together if you want them to, one isn't better than the other, they are both great.
Richard
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard,
I think the 47 will sell easier without numbering and clean. It may still stay to take to a club layout.
I'm afraid my Hymek and 37 are already going to a new home.
I will still 'do' diesels, but ones that I build myself.
The JLTRT 22 and Hymek appeal and would sit nicely with the 14xx.
The 47 and Western are just too big for my intended layout which needs to somehow get round a 16x7'6 garage! I would prefer to change the 33 for one I have built and the 31 is the wrong region for my new layout.
I shall take stock and probably move on the Heljan mk1s too.
I have also taken a fancy to the MOK standard 4MT 2-6-0 but probably need a bit more practice first. The eventual 9f was never intended for my layout anyway.
I would love to keep everything, but barring a lottery win, needs must I'm afraid
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Very nice clean work.
Doesn't matter if it's been written up elsewhere, imagine how deprived we would be if all the other authors took the same view
.Write it up, it'll have your finger print on it anyway and if there's one thing I've learn't about the web....things go missing over time, pages close, people move on, so the more diverse information we have the better it is in the long run.
As Richard sez, nowt wrong with diesels, all you need do now is repaint your 47 into two tone green and name it
, the WR were the first to name 47s by a long margin, Thor would be my first choice, but then being half Viking...that's understandable 
If I may tentatively offer one observation, try to remove as much cusp as possible, I know it's a terrible chore and time consuming, but in the end it really really really is.....honest....worth it, especially on visible parts. I might be wrong but it looks like the cusp is still on the edges of the step treads and lightening hole of the step bracket, I know it's a cruel close up, but one day the light will catch it and it'll niggle you.
I've some very fine Velorbe files I use to clean cusps off, they are expensive (subjective) but you can get by with just two or three key shapes, round, half round or flat, total about £35 or so.
I've zero interest in WR, except Castles and Halls (with high sided tenders) but I'll follow this, always keen to see good models being built.
Mick D
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the feed back Mick, I will go on cusp patrol tonight!
I often take photos on the phone as I work, and blow them up for reference as the eyes just aren't up to the job now!
I always welcome constructive comments, that's why I post my builds and with a bunch of talented modellers looking over ones shoulder, helps to keep me on my toes!
Ps: wasn't the original Thor written off in '65?
I often take photos on the phone as I work, and blow them up for reference as the eyes just aren't up to the job now!
I always welcome constructive comments, that's why I post my builds and with a bunch of talented modellers looking over ones shoulder, helps to keep me on my toes!
Ps: wasn't the original Thor written off in '65?
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Grumps, are you really selling the 47?
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Hi Phil,
PM sent...
West Junction
Western Thunderer
I am currently building a MOK 14xx and the parts fit perfectly however a couple of points with the instructions on page 7 of the body instructions (assuming yours are the same as mine).
Footplate valence. The part change notes (Modified Hanging Plate arrangement for 14xx. Parts 1048 and 1049) were missing from my instructions (On my first read through I assumed the buffer beam change notes were what was being referred to as they are fixed to the valance). There is no reference in the change notes as to when the valance should be fixed but I assume after the body shell (as the shell tab slots would be covered by the valance) but before the rear bunker and tank overlays. Too late for me with the bunker but will fix before the tank overlays (I will check again that the tank overlay tab slots are not covered by the valance just to be on the safe side). Even after filing the half etched bending line until a witness mark showed, the valance was still a bugger to bend. However speaking from experience it is worth using early as the front footplate is very fragile and easily bent when concentrating on the rear of the body
Tank wrappers (overlays). The instructions for this state that if the bend between the front and side of the tank is formed correctly the semi-circular cut-out at the front of the wrapper should touch the boiler correctly. This is not correct and there will always be a gap of about 1mm (quite a few swear words were uttered before contacting Dave). This gap is covered by parts 1033A and 1033B exactly as the front of a full size 14xx.
Footplate valence. The part change notes (Modified Hanging Plate arrangement for 14xx. Parts 1048 and 1049) were missing from my instructions (On my first read through I assumed the buffer beam change notes were what was being referred to as they are fixed to the valance). There is no reference in the change notes as to when the valance should be fixed but I assume after the body shell (as the shell tab slots would be covered by the valance) but before the rear bunker and tank overlays. Too late for me with the bunker but will fix before the tank overlays (I will check again that the tank overlay tab slots are not covered by the valance just to be on the safe side). Even after filing the half etched bending line until a witness mark showed, the valance was still a bugger to bend. However speaking from experience it is worth using early as the front footplate is very fragile and easily bent when concentrating on the rear of the body
Tank wrappers (overlays). The instructions for this state that if the bend between the front and side of the tank is formed correctly the semi-circular cut-out at the front of the wrapper should touch the boiler correctly. This is not correct and there will always be a gap of about 1mm (quite a few swear words were uttered before contacting Dave). This gap is covered by parts 1033A and 1033B exactly as the front of a full size 14xx.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the heads up!
I am useless at bending long thin strips. Markjj advised me to run a craft knife down the etched bend line until a witness mark shows through. I thought about annealing but probably make things worse! I have a hold and fold which is plenty long enough, so fingers crossed! I had to laugh when David states "no bananas" in the instructions because that is exactly like my sole bars on my Connieseur brake van turned out!
By coincidence I was speaking to David today on another matter, and he mentioned the side tanks and advised there would be around a 1mm gap!
Just checked there is reference to the 'stiffening blade' for the valance, but no ref as to when to fit. I guess as early as possible after the body shell
I am useless at bending long thin strips. Markjj advised me to run a craft knife down the etched bend line until a witness mark shows through. I thought about annealing but probably make things worse! I have a hold and fold which is plenty long enough, so fingers crossed! I had to laugh when David states "no bananas" in the instructions because that is exactly like my sole bars on my Connieseur brake van turned out!
By coincidence I was speaking to David today on another matter, and he mentioned the side tanks and advised there would be around a 1mm gap!
Just checked there is reference to the 'stiffening blade' for the valance, but no ref as to when to fit. I guess as early as possible after the body shell
adrian
Flying Squad
I'd suggest using a scrawker for this rather than a craft knife, this will open up the joint more of a V groove than a knife blade to get a better mitred joint.
Phil's Workbench: Olfa Plastic Cutter
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Richard
You don't need any practice to make an MOK kit, they almost fall together if you follow the instructions carefully. I'm waiting for the 9f too and in the meantime I'm really enjoying the Ivatt 4MT I need to get back to it once I get home from the latest business trip.
If Phil doesn't want the 47 drop me a line.
Richard
You don't need any practice to make an MOK kit, they almost fall together if you follow the instructions carefully. I'm waiting for the 9f too and in the meantime I'm really enjoying the Ivatt 4MT I need to get back to it once I get home from the latest business trip.
If Phil doesn't want the 47 drop me a line.
Richard
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard.
The chassis is coming on and the wheels and ABC motor/gearbox are on order.
As expected, everything went together without a fight!! The only very slightly fiddly parts were the brackets at the front end. (Seen in 2nd photo) But when I say fiddly, nothing compared to some of the parts on the dogfish I recently completed.
Chassis prior to folding with rocking bars and horn guides, I had inadvertently cut a tab off the stretcher just below 001
Here's the chassis folded with stretchers, motor mount fitted. Theres a little more work required to completely hide the tab positions.The rear axle box assy is posed to show the slot and tab system.
I can understand why people find these kits so addictive............
The chassis is coming on and the wheels and ABC motor/gearbox are on order.
As expected, everything went together without a fight!! The only very slightly fiddly parts were the brackets at the front end. (Seen in 2nd photo) But when I say fiddly, nothing compared to some of the parts on the dogfish I recently completed.
Chassis prior to folding with rocking bars and horn guides, I had inadvertently cut a tab off the stretcher just below 001
Here's the chassis folded with stretchers, motor mount fitted. Theres a little more work required to completely hide the tab positions.The rear axle box assy is posed to show the slot and tab system.
I can understand why people find these kits so addictive............
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Richard
An mok kit is significantly easier to build than a dog fish. Not that there is anything wrong with a dog fish as there most certainly isn't but there is some very tricky soldering that really does require 100 % accuracy.
The tab and slots on mok ensure that you can only solder things in the right place.
Richard
An mok kit is significantly easier to build than a dog fish. Not that there is anything wrong with a dog fish as there most certainly isn't but there is some very tricky soldering that really does require 100 % accuracy.
The tab and slots on mok ensure that you can only solder things in the right place.
Richard
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
You have to be careful with the front horn guides on this one, you can transpose the components.
I cut the parts without scribbling a ref number on them, and spent a few minutes making certain every thing was correct. I really don't see a happy ending once the tabs are twisted, soldered and cut!
I cut the parts without scribbling a ref number on them, and spent a few minutes making certain every thing was correct. I really don't see a happy ending once the tabs are twisted, soldered and cut!