7mm Loose Ends

[rosspeacock]

Got to admit I dont think the bogies are up to much, the 25 im making for I Futers is getting left as standard Ian says it will be fine as is because its only gonna shunt a couple of coaches up and down, would'nt like to see one thats pulled 10 coaches or 20/30wagons round Phills garden for an hour think it would probably melt. If I was making any JLRT kit for myself Id definately at the least put a Ron Chaplin gearbox in it and Id also make it so you can get the damn thing apart :scratch: :wave: Ross...

 

[28ten]

My etch for the marker lights arrived this morning so I can get on with that while i wait for the screws for the bogie
Dan :wave: also sent me some some laser cut glazing for the headcodes which arrived with the etch, so I have all the bits for the cab.
The etching was very quick I completed the drawings a week ago and I would recommend PPD if anybody else fancies getting anything done.

 

[28ten]

I couldnt resist checking the door overlay :lol: Its not properly fixed but it will give the correct handle recess when everything is straightened up. I did think about doing an overlay for the sound proofing, but it would have meant removing all the bulkhead detail which I thought was going a bit far

 

[Dan Randall]

Looking good.

I find this etching business is great fun - visualising something in 3D, drawing it in 2D, then waiting for Postie to call with the finished etches.

Am I right in thinking that the rivetted rectangles with offset holes, are brake rigging supports for the ABC bogies?


Regards

Dan

 

[28ten]

Yes they are for the ABC bogie. I will laminate a couple together and drill some holes through the half etched guide. Scale hardware bolts will probably follow!
Who was it who said you could build the kit in ten days ?

 

[28ten]

The marker lights are a success its not fixed yet but I think it looks much crisper and fitting the fibre optic will be easier

 

[lancer1027]

I am looking forward to the progress reports especially the fibre optics. I have thought about using it myself but i dont know enough or where to purchase etc.

 

[28ten]

I can take no credit for the fibre optic idea Dan did it before me http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php/2010/01/24/jltrt-western/
But I have refined it slightly by using a long drill from each side rather than hacking chunks of resin out with a burr
I am using a 1.5mm dia fibre optic which I got from here http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/component-shop__W0QQ_armrsZ1 along with some warm white leds

 

[Dan Randall]

I can take no credit for the fibre optic idea Dan did it before me http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php/2010/01/24/jltrt-western/
But I have refined it slightly by using a long drill from each side rather than hacking chunks of resin out with a burr
I am using a 1.5mm dia fibre optic which I got from here http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/component-shop__W0QQ_armrsZ1 along with some warm white leds

Hmmm, wish I'd thought of that too..... :lol:

You seem to be using a thicker fibre optic than me, which is actually a pretty good idea. If it's the same diameter as the brass tube, I guess you could make the visible end "lens" shaped? This would save faffing around trying to represent the lenses with Kristal Klear, as I was intending to do.

The marker light etches look good too.


Regards

Dan

 

[28ten]

You seem to be using a thicker fibre optic than me, which is actually a pretty good idea. If it's the same diameter as the brass tube, I guess
Regards

Dan

Thats the idea. for a thinner fibre just heat the end to form a mushroom.

 

[28ten]

most of the spring work is now complete on the trailing bogie, I just need the handrail knob. I am pleased with the result the hornblocks are running nicely in brass hornguided and everything is nice and smooth. the wheelsets just drop out when the spring wire is removed so removing the middle wheel will be no problem once the casting is fitted
Next, turn up some spacers to take up the sideplay, make some split axles and fill all the pickup holes...

 

[28ten]

I seem to have ended up doing a blow by blow account so here is tonights work
First up s some added detail to the bulkhead, the overlay gives the impression of the handle recess and a little shading will give it more depth, the door catch is a little oversize so that will go tomorrow
the next shot shows the filler around the headcode box and you can just make out the newly scribed line, I will give it a quick flash of primer to make sure everything is ok before reinstating some of the bits I have removed
I will do some more work on the bulkhead tomorrow, the door needs some hinges, a handle and a coat hook, and assuming I the headcode box is ok I may get round to scribing the division between the headcode doors
The problem is that I am looking at too many books and finding things to add/change Im not entirely happy with the air brake valve on the drivers console, its a little clunky and it is very visible.......

 

[28ten]

A quick blast on the headcode, the filler has toned the gap down a little, but not as much as I had hoped I think it needs a resin filler as there is not much to key into.
The postie brought the plates this morning They are N/S so they should look pretty good when painted, I think they are worth the extra.

 

[28ten]

Tonights action sees the marker lights refitted and the headcode hinges fitted. As i said before the headcode mod is not as effective as I hoped, but on the other hand I am pleased with the marker light and fibre optic. 5t needs cleaning up beu its getting there

 

[Phill Dyson]

I seem to have ended up doing a blow by blow account

Glad to see it mate
Cheers Phill

 

[Dan Randall]

the headcode mod is not as effective as I hoped, but on the other hand I am pleased with the marker light and fibre optic.

Hi Cynric

I had no end of trouble filling and re-scribing mine and was never 100% happy with the results, but I am pleased with the improved appearance and feel the effort was worthwhile.

I think the main problem was the filler I used (ready mixed, from a tube). It went on easily enough and sanded easily enough, but tended to crumble when scribed, giving a slightly ragged edge (though it's not that apparent to the naked eye). Still, I think I'll try Milliput on the next one I do.

Your etched marker lights look good.



Regards

Dan

 

[28ten]

I think I shall try this http://www.mastercasters.co.uk/17.html next time. Like you, I used squadron green which filled well but crumbled, its better than it was but not quite what I would want. I am hoping everything is fairly straightforward from here on.......although i think I have the same roof problem as you

Bring on the the D63xx I say

 

[28ten]

I cut up some more glazing for the sliding cab windows (the glue is going off, so im not moving it for pics!) after that I didnt really feel like doing the headcode box so I decided to get the soldering iron out and fit the remaining footboard supports to the brakevan. the upper step has also been fitted and the next job will be soldering the whitemetal springs and axle boxes prior to fixing the lower step.
i must say its nice to be back working a bit of metal rather than plastic Back to D1011 tomorrow.

 

[28ten]

Here is one of the cabside windows after cleaning up. I can see a couple of cusps that need cleaning off :lol:
Its glazed with real glass, which was not a difficult as it sounds. I will clean up the rest and then decide whether to fit them of leave the cab as it is. Im not desperate to have a cab window open so it may not be worth it.

 

[lancer1027]

I agree , step by step ,blow by blow whatever you want to call them they are great to see. They give insperation and idea's to others plus help if your struggling . But most of all,and this is what a forum is all about, you can enjoy watching the build and ask questions as you go Keep up the great work Cynric