7mm Dikitriki's Dark side: A WD 2-8-0

Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Steph Dale said:
Richard,
This might be a spectacularly daft question, but if you can't get the rods off how are you going to align the hornblocks?
Incidentally, I'm a bit perplexed about the problems you've found with the keep alive; Lenz, Zimo or ESU flavour?
Steph
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I can get the front rods off. Since I know the chassis runs very well, I shall happily take the spacing off the front axle.

The stay aliveI do not believe to be a problem (it's Zimo). I really do think that the centre axle is a fraction too low, so with inadequate pick up and dirty track, it was asking too much. I am fully expecting that this revamp cure all problems.

7mmMick said:
Progress at a pace :thumbs: I like the use of the Meteor Models Hornblocks as I have a lorry load in stock and will be interested to what you think of them. So far so good........
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I really like the Meteor hornblock sets. They are substantial, well engineered, and a doddle to fit. I've been using them for years. Not so good if you are fitting inside valve gear as they take up a lot of room.

Current state of play as the iron warms up....

P1010422a.jpg

If I was starting the chassis now, I would be using the Hobby Holidays jig, but these extended axles work just as well.

Richard
 
Jordan or Plymouth Mad

Jordan or Plymouth Mad

Mid-Western Thunderer
Wow... Proper Modelling, 'real time' posts, and what a pace!! :bowdown: :thumbs:

While you've been doing this, I've cut the grass... washed the car... hoovered the car... jetwashed the front wall... :(

The closest I've got to modelling has been trying to envisage where, should Hell Freezeth Over, I could possibly run some track up the garden, and had a look at Schiller Point in the shed - I have the bare boards up at the moment for a bit of maintenance....
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Jordan said:
Wow... Proper Modelling, 'real time' posts, and what a pace!! :bowdown: :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Thanks Jordan

The hornguides are soldered in. I used 145 degree solder. I'd normally use higher to solder the guides in, but that would be at the start of the build rather than at the end, and since there's nothing else to solder on, and the bond surface is big, I can't see it going anywhere.

P1010424.JPG

The extended axles are loose in the bearings still, which means everything will be free, and I've probably got the centres right. Since this loco is driven off the centre axle, I have no error compounding to deal with. I won't be able to tell until it's tested of course.

Now to solder on the springs. I have decided not to strip them, but to brush them hard with a suede brush as I think most of the paint's OK.
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
I've got one of the driving wheel springs on - they also serve to retain the hornblocks.

P1010426a.jpg

A nice sprung bearing:). You can see a nick middle top left of the bearing. There is a corresponding nick in the hornguide which means I know which bearing goes with which guide, and which way up it is. The other bearing and guide is marked with nicks to the middle top right. This means they are always paired - I mark them as soon as they are fettled to fit.

The screw is held in place with some Loctite 'Lock 'N Seal' so it can be adjusted if necessary.

Richard
 
S

SteveO

Guest
This is like a steam TV drama! I'm rushing out to put the kettle on or use the loo between the ad breaks
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
SteveO said:
This is like a steam TV drama! I'm rushing out to put the kettle on or use the loo between the ad breaks
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:thumbs: me too Steve, will he make it, won't he? The suspense is killing me. The end must surely be a YouTube video on Heyside to prove the remedy :)) :))

Mick
 
Ressaldar

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
a large malt would be better for all of us, especially Richard - before, during and after the adverts:thumbs: Great work Richard. .

cheers

Mike
 
demu1037

demu1037

Western Thunderer
Looks like it will actually negotiate the 'crossover to the dark side' by now, lets hope there isnt a brakevan in the way!
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Right, just to wrap things up.

It was reassembled last night. Not entirely without problems, as the RG7 gearbox was too wide to fit between the hornblocks. Fortunately, only by 0.6mm, so short work with the file cured that, but I should have measured more carefully. It runs perfectly, and over the course of an hour or so's intensive shunting this morning to test both the loco and the Dinghams, there were no problems whatever.

Here's the promised video :)


Happy bunny.

Richard
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
alcazar said:
Is it me, or are there two too many "chuffs" per wheel revolution?
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I don't think so. 2 cylinder loco, 4 chuffs per revolution. It seems to match up pretty well.

john lewsey said:
Hi Richard what happened to those MTH coaches you were doing did they come out ok
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They didn't get any further as my time had to go into things for Heyside. They are not forgotten, and I am looking forward to resume my workbench in earnest after Aylesbury.

Richard
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
I'm going to inflict another day of modelling on you:)

I'm desperately trying to finish off the 1F and Aspinall saddle tank for the show...which means they have to be finished today and weathered tonight/tomorrow, at least to a certain extent.

First off is the 1Fs firebox front/backhead, whatever you want to call it.

P1010442.JPG

A pretty simple affair, the pressure gauge is on the back of the spectacle plate.

Richard
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Lovely work Richard, looking forward to seeing the Lanky tank at the show. When you have more time it would be great to hear the painting process on the crew :thumbs:

ATB Mick
 
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