Crane Locomotives

[Rob Pulham]

Thanks Mike.

 

[spikey faz]

Paint and weathering is under way.
I have a tub of AK Interactive corrosion texture which I used on my G Scale locomotives.

Although it's possibly a bit overscale for 7mm/1ft, I thought I'd use a bit. A lot of it will rub off, but what's left will all add the scruffy look I'm aiming for.


A lot more to do.

Oh, and I beefed up the jib brackets.


Mike

 

[spikey faz]

I've just made a start on weathering the cab. First, a blast of hairspray, followed by some salt on the areas that I want to look the most rusty.


Then, a rattle can spray session.


I decided to make a couple of panels a slightly different colour, so a bit more masking.


Once the paint is dry, scrub away with an old toothbrush.


I think it needs some lettering and/or a number on the sides. I'll have rummage through my transfers to see if I've got anything suitable.

Mike

 

[RichardG]

Proper weathering! The result looks superb. I want to have a go at this, bookmarked for future reference.

 

[spikey faz]

Than

Proper weathering! The result looks superb. I want to have a go at this, bookmarked for future reference.

Thank you Richard for your comment. That's very kind.

The 'hairspray' technique is a bit old hat now. There are a lot of products out there that I dare say will achieve a far more professional finish. But they inevitably entail spraying a masking product on with an airbrush. Nothing wrong with that except I'm lazy and can't be faffed with all that cleaning of needles etc afterwards. So, I got for the easy option!

Mike

 

[simond]

Mike,

that’s very effective. I tried a “salt mask” some years back, and concluded that the finish wasn’t what I was looking for (more flatulent hippopotamus than rusty steel) and overpainted it. I think I might have another go…

cheers
Simon

 

[spikey faz]

Here you go Richard:

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

Mike,

that’s very effective. I tried a “salt mask” some years back, and concluded that the finish wasn’t what I was looking for (more flatulent hippopotamus than rusty steel) and overpainted it. I think I might have another go…

cheers
Simon

I've had a few disasters as well. I think it's wise to experiment. I tend to use the salt quite sparingly.

I've just googled flatulent hippo. Interesting!

Mike

 

[David Mylchreest]

I've just made a start on weathering the cab. First, a blast of hairspray, followed by some salt ...

Did you put the salt onto the wet paint?

 

[spikey faz]

Did you put the salt onto the wet paint?

Hi David.

No. The red primer is vaguely and rather conveniently rust coloured and is very dry before any weathering takes place.

The hair spray is sprayed on and then the salt is sprinkled on where the rust is to be. I use a fan heater to dry the hair spray out (only takes a few minutes). Then I spray the rattle can colour on. Again I use the fan heater to speed up the drying process. Then it's straight onto the water and toothbrush to get the salt off leaving the red primer showing through. I also use cocktail stick to pick off bits of the topcoat, again leaving the red primer showing through.

Like I say, this process is a bit old fashioned and there are more up to date products made specifically for the job.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

So, several years after my initial false start, I've finally finished this little crane kit.


I think I can put my feet up now!

Mike

 

[AllenM]

Hello mike
That is beyond words to describe.
It was only the dull November sky in the last closeup photo that 'said' it was not the full size original. Well worth all the effort.
Regards
Allen

 

[spikey faz]

Hello mike
That is beyond words to describe.
It was only the dull November sky in the last closeup photo that 'said' it was not the full size original. Well worth all the effort.
Regards
Allen

Cheers Allen

What's also pleasing for me is that it runs really well (now that I've overcome the issues I had earlier with the smaller wheels). The low gearing really pays dividends on this kind of locomotion.

Mike

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

Mike,

An excellent job especially that bubbling rust.

However a question on the rivet pattern and construction of the real thing. There is a row of rivets along the front edge of the cab, circled, but what is the cladding sheet riveted to?

Ian.

 

[spikey faz]

Mike,

An excellent job especially that bubbling rust.

However a question on the rivet pattern and construction of the real thing. There is a row of rivets along the front edge of the cab, circled, but what is the cladding sheet riveted to?

Ian.

View attachment 253034

It's the latest innovation: invisible girders!

I was going to fit something in there, but it got overlooked. I suppose I should sort it out at some point. I think a couple of strips of black plastikard would do the job.

There are no doubt other anomalies lurking!

Mike

 

[paulc]

Using salt may be old hat but it gets the results and it's free unless you have to buy the hair spray .
I've used the method on some mineral wagons with good results .

 

[spikey faz]

I bought this Gladiator crane tank kit secondhand several years ago.

It came with some additional parts including a Slaters gearbox and motor together with a full set of Slaters wheels. The wheels were subsequently reprofiled to S7 by Colin Dowling. Since then not a lot has happened to it until today when I started going through the instructions.

My initial thoughts are to use the supplied chassis spacers (25mm wide) to allow a bit more sideways movement on one or more of the axles. This is to hopefully get it to negotiate the curves on my layout. I'm also looking at twin-beam compensation on the coupled axles with a pivoting beam on the rear axle. All very much in the rough planning stage!

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

I've made a start by punching out the chassis rivets.

Just trying the motor/gearbox out to get an idea of how it will all fit.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

With the trailing wheel temporarily in place, it is apparent how little clearance there will be from the underside of the footplate. I may just compensate the driving wheels and leave the trailing wheels in fixed bearings.

Mike

 

[spikey faz]

Today I cut out some slots in the frames to take the Slaters hornguides. I'm leaving the rearmost axle with fixed bearings.

One thing I may have to reconsider using is the frame spacers. They are a bit too skinny for the extra width of the S7 axle for my liking.



Its going to be a compromise between prototype fidelity and getting the model to negotiate curves.

Mike