FIRELESS LOCOMOTIVE BUILD.

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 1.

My next job will be to build one of these kits to hopefully represent one of the BP Llandarcy fireless locomotives. Any help or photographs would be appreciated. More comments with the pictures:


The CSP Models kit.


Another view.





The mortal remains of ex BP Llandarcy Sir Charles stored at Swansea.


A pair of the locomotives in the refinery.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 2.
So far it has been pretty much a standard 0-4-0 build but hopefully over the next week or so it’ll start to look like a 7mm Andrew Barclay fireless locomotive. I’ll put descriptions of the work with each picture:


The CSP kit, I understand it now comes in a smaller box. I also believe the kit has been previously produced by several different companies.


The cut out in the frame for the Slater’s sprung horn blocks. The frame sides are held together by countersunk screws through the square section spacers.


The horn blocks with axle boxes aligned in the frames using extended taped rods as axles with the coupling rods. With a slight clearance either side of the cut out in the frames, this system allows the horn blocks to be set at the exact spacing of the coupling rods which ensures perfect running.
The horn blocks are then soldered in position.


The wheel set temporarily fitted to the suspension system. The axle boxes can slide up and down following irregularities in the track also maintaining electrical contact and traction with the rail. The axle boxes sits in a peg (stop) which sets the ride height with a coil spring to press it down to keep in contact with the rail. A staple is a temporary keep to stop it falling out.


Coupling rods fitted with crank pin bearings which have been reduced in size to prevent excessive slop.


The brake gear being aligned with my good friend Blutac.


The motor. The black thing at the bottom is the motor mount (commonly called the gearbox) which sits over the driven axle with the gear fitted and the motor rising vertically ish into the steam drum (or firebox). The motor will be reversed so the electrical terminals are away from the worm.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 3.
I only model for an hour or so 2 or 3 times a week so this won’t be a quick build.
Captions with the pictures:


One assembled cylinder bolted on for a test fit. The tail of the slide bar past the support bracket will be removed and the front (rear) cylinder cover will be fitted when the piston rod is trimmed to length.


One assembled cylinder bolted on for a test fit. The tail of the slide bar past the support bracket will be removed and the front (rear) cylinder cover will be fitted when the piston rod is trimmed to length.


A cruel close up of the cross head/con rod bearing. 14BA washers are used to take up slack.


Another view showing close clearance between the cross head and support bracket at the end of the stroke. I’ll be busy making the second cylinder next week.

 

[davey4270]

Fireless Model Build 4.​

Not the best of pictures as this shows the distorted footplate. However, some progress has been made on my kit.
Firstly, a replacement footplate is on order.
Secondly, the right hand cylinder has been assembled. The piston rods have been shortened along with the slide bars.
Thirdly, the rear cylinder covers have been fitted and the cab front and sides have been assembled.
In previous pictures, the footplate has been bolted to the frames but the protruding screws have prevented the steam drum from sitting correctly. This will be addressed when the new footplate is supplied.





Now the footplate is straight.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 5.​

I have replaced the brake pull rods with finer wire (0.7mm), Araldited on both buffer planks and modified slightly the drum/new footplate securing arrangement. I try to make these (usually the tank/boiler assembly) removable to help painting them as separate components.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 6.​

More comments with the pictures:


The second cab side has been assembled but will not be glued to the footplate until after painting. The con rod big end bushes (crank pin end) have been shortened and also visible is the replacement steam drum cover.


The drum has been attached by self tapping screws which pass through the footplate attaching it to its seats. The screw ends are visible along with the main chassis retaining screws that fit into captive nuts between the self tapping screws.


The drum rear white metal casting has been replaced with plastic disc. The casting weighed 32 grams while the plastic replacement is 2 grams. A useful 1 ounce weight saving here as the model is very tail (cab) heavy.
I will also replace the roof with a brass component saving further weight.


The instructions to build the buffers. Adrian B. Swaine (ABS) often expects you to “scratch” build components although this is easier than it first appears. I have already countersunk the buffer housings almost to the buffer plank face with a 1.7mm drill in a pin chuck. White metal drills easily so gently does it and keep checking. It’s easy to drill a bit more but difficult to put it back. Adrian was still an active modeller at 90 years of age.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 7.​

Comments with the pictures:


The frames have been dismantled to prepare for painting. They have been soaked overnight in a solution of baking soda which, being caustic, will neutralise any traces of acidic flux. They were then given a good scrub with “Shiny Sinks”, using an old toothbrush and hot water.


The frames will be primed with an acid etch primer, I use Upol Acid 8 available from Halfords. I’m sure it wasn’t £18 the last time I bought it!!! Still, it’s a large aerosol can and will do many models. We use an acid etch primer as it’s less likely to flake off from the edges.


Some detail added to the model includes various valves on the steam drum, cab side handrails (also visible in the other pictures), cab seat/locker, water gauge and part of the reverser mechanism visible in other pictures in front of the cab. The cab is still removable as are the coupling hooks that have been trial fitted.


Blue wheels for a change. Plasticard balance weights have been cut out and superglued before painting as was a steel chemical blacking agent to the steel tyres. I’ve previously used a product from Carr’s which was very effective, however, having run out of it I purchased a new pot. Unfortunately the new one is not as effective as the old one having taken 4, yes four, applications and still not properly black. No doubt some EU legislation has insisted on it being less “toxic” in case some idiot tries to drink it!

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 8.​

Comments with the pictures:


The steam feed to the drum. There will be a valve wheel to fit to the top which can isolate the steam pressure to disconnect the supply. Note there is only a pipe feed below the footplate this side which would pass through the frames from the other side.


The other side showing a blank flange below the footplate where the steam supply would fit.


Some of the fittings in place.

The worm and gear wheel drive on the trailing axle. Note that part of the gearbox frame has been cut away to clear the plunger pick up components. The white block is an insulated mount while the brass pin is the tail of the plunger pick up that wipes on the inside of the wheel rims. There’s a small spring in there gently applying outward pressure to the plungers. A wire will connect from these to the motor terminals.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 9.​

Comments with the pictures:


Wires have been soldered to the tails of the plunger pickups and also to the motor terminals.


The bit you won’t see. The buffer planks have also been painted.


Lead sheet has been added to the front of the steam drum to counterbalance the weight of the white metal cylinders and cab sheets. This is not usually a problem with the cylinders at the front of a locomotive which tend to balance the model. The superfluous steam valve from top right has been repositioned at lower left to supply the lower connection to the gauge glass. This part was not mentioned in the kit.


The replacement cab roof. Being brass it will reduce another ounce of weight by replacing the white metal cab roof. The sides need to be bent up and a strip of rivet detail added to the roof centre.
The bits of brass soldered underneath will fit neatly inside the cab and also stop any light shining through the join.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 10.​

Comments with the pictures:


The new rear step fitted with the supplied part alongside.


I had fitted the supplied front steps but removed them to replace with something more appropriate.
A piece of 1.5mm x 0.5mm brass bar was bent to shape around a lollipop stick and glued into holes drilled in the underside of the footplate valance.


This specimen has recently been restored at the West Somerset Railway and the open cab footsteps are clearly visible.


A bird’s eye view showing the new roof. Slight camera distortion but it is straight and square. Top and left of the steam drum is the steam feed and a supplied valve wheel will fit in the hole.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUULD 11.

The model is now with Crymlyn A Shop's Dai the Paint. Watch this space.

 

[davey4270]

FIRELESS MODEL BUILD 12.​

A few small details to complete. That’ll be a driver and builder’s plates on the cab side which are on order, hence the number on the upper cab side leaving the lower side clear for the plates to be affixed in the builder’s usual position.


A few small details to complete. That’ll be a driver and builder’s plates on the cab side which are on order, hence the number on the upper cab side leaving the lower side clear for the plates to be affixed in the builder’s usual position.


Graig Wen Colliery’s new Andrew Barclay fireless locomotive has just been delivered.
Some concern has been raised by the safety committee that a coal fired steam locomotive could ignite firedamp in certain areas of the colliery.